General Geographic Area: Upcountry Maui

In a nutshell: “Upcountry” is a term which describes not only a way of life, but much of the area on the Haleakala side of Maui away from the shoreline. The largest towns Upcountry are Pukalani, Makawao, Kula and Haiku. Although Upcountry is mostly rural, agricultural and residential, Upcountry Maui also offers quite a bit for visitors too.
Minuses: No beaches, and far less tourism oriented.
Sound-bite: “Excuse me ma’am, how do I get back to the down-country?”

“Upcountry” is as much a lifestyle as it is a place. Many people who live Upcountry consider themselves to be quite different from those fancy “city-slickers” who live in paces like Kahului, Wailuku, Kihei or West Maui. Take the “up” off and you have the closest translation of what this term would mean on the mainland: “Country” (with a capital C!) There are Upcountry bumper stickers that proudly proclaim the owner’s mindset, and depending on who you ask, many folks have an opinion on who/what/where is qualified to be considered worthy of that label.

Back to the geography: like all the geographic regions in Maui there are no precisely defined boundaries to Upcountry (more accurately: especially Upcountry!) For example, depending on who you ask, Upcountry can start in, just above, or well above Paia Town. Parts of Paia could be any or all of: “Upcountry”, “Central Maui”, “Road to Hana” and even “North Shore.” One thing is in definite agreement: Upcountry has no water sports

Upcountry Maui has several thoroughfares, but the Haleakala Highway (Hwy 37), Maui’s biggest highway, will be the entry route into Upcountry Maui for most. Other primary roads are Baldwin Avenue (Hwy 390) which heads from Paia up to Makawao; Makawao Avenue (west Hwy 365), which connects Makawao to the Haleakala Highway; Kaupakalua Road (east Hwy 365) connects Makawao to Haiku and the start of twisty “Road to Hana” section of Hana Highway (mile marker 0 of Hwy 360.)

Upcountry it is especially important to take GPS and online maps (including Google Maps) with a grain of salt. Be aware that there are many private, gated, nonexistent, cane and/or 4WD roads that show on GPS as public roads. Ignore maps that connect Upcountry to South Maui. No public roads exist to connect these areas.

For more specific information on Upcountry Maui, browse the Upcountry Maui category.

You may also be interested in:

• Kokomo Hale
• Paia Dean’s
• Pi’iholo Ranch Canopy Tours

Standing at the Haleakala summit is like standing on Mars.

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Haleakala Crater is the most popular attraction in Upcountry Maui. Stunning sunrises, panoramic out-of-this-world landscapes, birds-eye views of the Maui central valley, and flora and fauna that exist nowhere else in the world.
Minuses: The air is thin, and hiking here is not for the less fit.
Sound-bite: “Oh my Lord, it is cold up here!”

DETAILS:
Haleakala National Park covers the summit area of the larger of the two volcanic mountains that make up Maui. The National Park’s boundary has fingers that extend down the Hana side of the mountain, all the way to the ocean. (The entire park includes the Kipahulu area, where Ohe’o Gulch (Seven Pools) and Pipiwai Trail are found – this article includes only the Summit Area.)

Geologically Speaking
Speaking of “crater” this is a good time to explain that the summit area is actually not a typical crater formed by volcanic activity (such as you would see on the Big Island of Hawai’i.) Haleakala Crater is so gigantic because it was formed over eons as the result of erosion of the entire volcanic mountain top. Over this period of time, smaller lava flows back-filled the eroding valley, building up the floor of what is commonly called the Haleakala Crater. The cinder cones that dot the landscape here are the last of these most recent eruptions (and these individually have true volcanic craters.)

Like the oft misunderstood prune, there has been an effort to re-brand the Haleakala Crater area something more technically accurate (dried lava-mountain?), but I think the Maui Guidebook will just call it a capital-C “Crater” (as in place name) rather than the longer-winded (and far-less recognized) “Haleakala National Park Summit Area.”

Oh, and that dried lava-mountain you’re looking at isn’t actually done erupting yet. Haleakala is dormant, and (geologically speaking) it has erupted fairly recently. You’ll hear most guidebooks quote the more “hey that’s not that long ago” date of 1790, but that date is largely based upon deductions made from a notoriously bad map maker’s map not matching the coastal lines on an accurate map. When subjected to carbon dating, the rocks from that lava flow date to the 1600′s. (I don’t know about you, but my money is on the science nerds.) Haleakala is also expected to erupt several more times in the future. Since geological time is measured in the millions of years, our time on Haleakala (and Earth) is short enough that you can feel secure leaving the heat-reflective lava suit back home in the family fallout shelter.

That dot in the corner is a couple emerging from the Crater on Sliding Sands Trail

Stuff to Remember When You Visit
Remember to bring your sunscreen, plenty of water, and something else you may have left back home: layers of warm clothing. Overnight (yeah, before sunrise) temperatures can dip below freezing. Even during the day temperatures can be cold enough for a sweatshirt, or even a jacket – especially if you’re not getting any blood moving waiting for the yellow disc to rise above the horizon. Once the sun does rise, there is less atmosphere to scatter and absorb UV rays, so the sun’s skin-burning potential is actually stronger at these higher elevations than it is at the beach.

Oh, and while we’re on the subject of the beach and ocean – if you’re a SCUBA diver, the reduced pressure at the altitude of Haleakala is well below that of a pressurized aircraft. So be sure to observe the same degassing time rules you would prior to flying.

Also important to remember, if you go for a hike into the Crater, the hike in is deceptively easy. The hike out is another story. The thin air and elements (sun, wind, occasionally rain) means you’ll likely take twice as much time (and way more than twice the effort) to get out than you spent hiking in.

Sunrises
Sunrise is the most popular time here. Mark Twain called it “the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed.” Words can not do this event justice, it is a feeling to be experienced. Conditions are typically conducive to spectacular sunrises – but that doesn’t mean they’re guaranteed. Arriving here for sunrise means getting up very early. I usually suggest to friends visiting to go on their first or second morning (while their body is still on an earlier time-zone.)

Haleakala Sunrise.  -  Photo Credit: Ewen Roberts, licensed under Creative Commons 2.0

Sunrise Scheduling 101
1. You want to get to the summit 20-30 minutes before the sunrise time in the table below. (The weather widget on the sidebar has today’s sunrise & sunset – click “Hale” at the top for exact time.)
2. Leave yourself an extra 15-30 minutes (depending on how far you’re driving) for slow-pokes and paying the entrance fee.
3. If you’re driving during peak traffic times (typically during daylight hours, and especially from West Maui) drive times can take longer.

(Sunrise/Sunset times are from the NPS and have been properly time adjusted for the summit.)

When the Sun Sets
A strong “second-best” next to the sunrises, sunsets are still absolutely spectacular up here. If you just find that you just can’t rationalize waking up before the crack of dawn on your vacation, hanging out for the sunset might just suffice.

Barring special closures, the park is open 24-hours a day, so you can come up here and leave any time you want.

Since there is less atmosphere up here, combined with being above turbulent atmospheric conditions, and virtually zero light pollution, the summit area of Haleakala also ranks among the very best sites in the world for viewing the night sky. Astronomers can expect to see objects up to 7th magnitude. If you don’t know what that means, magnitude is a measurement of brightness. The higher the number, the dimmer the object. Remember the bag of tools the space station astronaut accidentally let go of last year? That bag of tools shines in the night sky at 7th magnitude. It is so dark up here that if you know where to look, you can literally see a backpack sized bag of tools from Haleakala as it orbits Earth 174 miles above!

Silversword in bloom
(Photo: Forest and Kim Starr)

Flora & Fauna
Haleakala National Park has more endangered species than any other National Park in the country (including species which are not native.) The park is chock-full of facts about all the plants and creatures unique to Haleakala. If you like learning about wildlife, take the time to stop in the visitor’s center, and also to read the many educational and informational signs that the NPS has posted around the parking areas and trailheads. (You may also want to stop in the visitor’s center even if you’re just here for the views – they have one of top drive-up Crater views.)

One of the plants which is native to only Haleakala is the Ahinahina, or Haleakala Silversword. Living only at the summit of Haleakala, the Silversword has developed some interesting adaptations for survival. One of the lesser-known adaptations is that the leaves of the Silversword form at an angle so that the older leaves focus the warming energy of the sun on to the youngest leaves. Threatened by near extinction in the 20th century, the Silversword is now considered a triumph of conservation efforts. This plant lives between 15 and 50 years, blooming only once before dying. When a Silversword goes into bloom, it puts out an impressive stalk of flowers that can be as tall as a person. The stalk contains hundreds of what look like tiny purple, wine red, or sometimes yellow sunflowers radiating in all directions. If you are hiking here in the summer, you will likely see several Silverswords in full bloom.

Car strikes are a top threat to Nene in the park.

The Nene is another Haleakala conservation success, although these creatures are still precariously endangered. Years of hunting by introduced species (and people), the Nene became virtually extinct. With only 30 individuals remaining, in the 1960′s & 70′s a captive breeding program In England bred and then reintroduced the birds to Haleakala Park. Today a stable population of about 250 wild individuals populates the park, and some have even been sighted (including by yours truly) at much lower elevations.

Many guidebooks mistakenly call the summit of Haleakala the Nene’s native habitat. However, the summit area is not where these birds were once primarily found, but was chosen as a protective area to reestablish the species. A relative of the Canadian Goose, the zebra-striped birds were actually once common at much lower elevations. Since the Nene evolved with no natural predators, they also lay their eggs right on the ground which makes them easy-pickens for rats, mongoose, cats and dogs.

Weather
The Park Service used to offer dial-up forecasts, the phone numbers for which are still widely printed as fact in many guidebooks. Don’t bother calling these numbers, they are no more.

The NOAA offers forecasts – but keep in mind weather can change rapidly in this environment. The NOAA website will give you as accurate a forecast as you are gonna get.

Horseback Riding
This is the only other method besides your legs that you can use to get into the Crater. Pony Express Tours offers an outstanding ride that is worth every penny.

Downhill Bike Tours
The Haleakala Summit is also a popular place for launching downhill bike tours. Until 2007, tour companies brought visitors to the summit for sunrise, and then launched their multi-hour downhill tour right from the parking lots. However, a string of accidents, including a fatality, caused the National Park Service to ban commercial launching of bikes within the park boundaries. They call it a “stand-down” as it is intended to be a period where the NPS can re-assess their position – however, it has been extended, and does not look likely that the activity can guarantee the level of safety the park service feels appropriate. You can still rent bikes from these companies and launch yourself – however this is (ironically) more dangerous than being part of a group as you don’t have a protective buffer of a tour van blocking aggressive drivers from passing in unsafe areas. Alternatively, the tour operators do launch from just outside the boundary of the park, but this cuts out a significant portion of the ride. Speaking as someone who once lived on Crater Rd and observed many sketchy situations where lives were endangered, I would advise strongly that anyone interested in this activity become educated as to the risks, and how to minimize them.

Camping & Cabins
For hikers there are three cabins and two campgrounds inside the Crater. None have electricity or potable water. All are miles from your car, and can be strenuous hikes. For non-hikers, there is also a drive-up campground outside the Crater at Hosmer’s Grove.

Downhill Bikers starting at Haleakala Summit

You may have read elsewhere that you “literally must win a lottery to rent the cabins.” This is a bit of sensationalized exaggeration combined with outdated information. Cabin reservations, and current booking schedule, are now handled online at https://fhnp.org/wcr/ – this is great news for the chronically unlucky: the only luck involved is that no one has beat you to your dates. Operated by the NPS, each cabin can accommodate up to 12 hikers and rent is a steal at $60-75 per night.

Horse and Mule Rides
There are guided horse and mule rides into the Crater for experienced riders who don’t want to hike in. These are with private companies, and must be set up with them before visiting. One company that comes highly recommended is Pony Express Tours.

Waikamoi Preserve
Just inside park entrance alongside Hosmer Grove is the Waikamoi Preserve. This place is spectacular. I intend to do a full-page writeup in the future. The Nature Conservancy manages this fenced-off protected habitat of native cloud forest, and it is off-limits except to those on special hikes led by naturalists. Call 808-572-4459 to find out how you can join a group to glimpse of pre-Western-contact Hawai’i that very few will ever see.

More Info at the Park
There are programs ranging from 15-minute talks to half-day naturalist guided hikes offered most days of the week. You can just stop in the Visitor Center or call – the park phone number is 808-572-4400.

The National Park Service has some nice general summaries of the park on their website. Unfortunately they have not yet entered the 21st century, and don’t provide access to the majority of the wealth of detailed information they have about Haleakala there. The silver lining is that lots of this info is available in the Visitor’s Center, from both highly knowledgeable park staff, displays, and informational literature.

Key Info:
Location:
GPS Coordinates: 20.712245,-156.249962
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Visitor’s Center, Camping (both tent and cabin), grills (Hosmer), picnic tables (Hosmer) and toilets. (No potable water.)
Phone: 808-572-4400
Fees: $10 – NPS Info: http://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/summit-area.htm
Get directions

Download a PDF trail map from the NPS.
View this NPS map of Haleakala National Park on the NPS site.

View Haleakala National Park (Summit) in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Pony Express Tours
• Haleakala Park Closed – Winter Weather Warning
• Haleakala Bike Company

Piiholo Zipline

In a nutshell: Spectacular fly-by views of the forest, countryside, ocean and volcano.
Minuses: Not for the budget traveler.
Sound-bite: “It was like floating through the forest in a 40 MPH recliner!”

The Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline boasts five lines, including the longest side-by-side line in Hawaii (over a half mile long.) All the lines at Pi’iholo can accommodate at least two parallel riders, so it is perfect for couples and family. (They have one zipline that has four parallel lines which is a blast if you brought the kids along.)

Just above Makawao Town at 2000′ elevation, visiting Pi’iholo is a dramatic change in scenery and a refreshingly cool contrast from hot days of beach and sun.

With the ocean far below and off in the distance, you glide high and free above fragrant eucalyptus canopy. Zipping along up here as misty mountain clouds pass through the tree-tops becomes more like flying high over hobbit-land in a dream than the “Hawaiian vacation” you may have imagined. You realize up here that Maui is so much more than beaches and tiki torches depicted on postcards – what you know about Maui takes on yet another spectacular facet.

At heights up to 600′ off the ground, and speeds of up to 40 MPH, it is also definitely a thrill ride – but even a nervous young woman who was coerced into going by her husband was put to ease by the very well trained, and friendly staff. In fact she said that the single biggest factor to put her at ease was the understanding and patient explanations of the safety mechanisms built into the design. (I found that perspective interesting, because I just automatically assumed cheating death is part of the thrill!)

But this isn’t just fantasy-dream meets thrill ride – the activity also stuffs its fair share of sight-seeing and eco-adventure into the package. Flying over rough terrain and verdant gulches, riders soar over a beautiful forest canopy of both exotic and native plants and trees – natives such as Koa, Ohi’a & Halapepe. Native birds like the majestic and endangered Pueo and the once virtually extinct Nēnē call this forest home.

The Ranch
Pi’iholo Ranch is a working 800-acre cattle ranch, still boasting genuine Paniolo tending hundreds of head of cattle and dozens of horses (this is the real-deal, they even have their own rodeo arena.) The ranch is owned by the most widely known family on Maui (hint: the quickest way to get to Baldwin Beach from here from is to take Baldwin Ave.) You can feel the rich authentic ranch history that spans across seven generations and two centuries of Maui’s past. Long known to visitors for their horseback riding and ATV tours, their experience treating visitors right shows – they even thoughtfully include drinks and a snack halfway through your zipline tour. Just talking to the staff you can tell they’re passionate about Maui and their land, and sharing both with visitors.

Other Info
All tours start with a walk across a 317-foot suspended bridge, which is an unusual experience in itself. Participants must be at least 10 years old and weigh between 75 pounds and 275 pounds for ziplining and at least 60 pounds for Tango Tower (a 42-foot tall climbing tower and rope course.) The tour is not for people who can’t exert under moderate physical activity, pregnant women, people with back problems or any serious medical condition. Closed toed shoes are required, and long pants (if you even brought ‘em!) are suggested. They supply rain gear if needed. They’re currently offering a 10% discount if you book direct on their website.

Key Info:
Location: 325 Waiahiwi Road, Makawao
Phone: 808-572-1717
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Yelp
Web: http://www.piiholozipline.com/
Price: $140 – $190

View Piiholo Ranch Zipline in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Pi’iholo Ranch Canopy Tours
• Tedeschi Winery
• Ali’i Kula Lavender

Kids love this one!

Rating: 4.85 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Spectacular fly-by views of the forest canopy, countryside, ocean and volcano.
Minuses: Less adrenaline than their other ziplines.
Sound-bite: “treehouse!”

This is the newest addition at Pi’iholo Ranch – their wildly popular (and #1 rated) Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline now has a more younger-family-friendly sister tour.

The main distinction between the Piiholo Ranch Zipline and the Canopy Tours is that the Canopy Tours were designed with your kids as the focus. (Don’t get me wrong, mom & dad will have a blast here too!) Children as young as 8 years old and 60 lbs. can ride (vs. 10 yo & 75 lbs. on the big ziplines), and riders are continuously in the trees from start to end. There are also more ziplines on the Canopy tour (they’re tamer and shorter at 220′ to 1,000′.) There are also 4 suspension bridges (30′ to 130′ long), 12 tree platforms, 2 tree houses and a tree tunnel.

I’m going to steal some lines from our article about their first Piiholo Ranch Zipline, because they apply here as well:

With the ocean far below and off in the distance, you glide high and free above fragrant eucalyptus canopy. Zipping along up here as misty mountain clouds pass through the tree-tops becomes more like flying high over hobbit-land in a dream than the “Hawaiian vacation” you may have imagined. You realize up here that Maui is so much more than beaches and tiki torches depicted on postcards – what you know about Maui takes on yet another spectacular facet.

Also like their sister ziplines, safety mechanisms built into the design rule. The suspension bridges (which have railings) even have a safety line that spans above you, and you’re tethered to it with a carabiner.

But this isn’t all thrill ride – the activity also stuffs even more sight-seeing and eco-adventure into the package than their sister tours. Flying over rough terrain and verdant gulches, riders soar through the forest canopy with both exotic and native plants and trees – natives such as Koa, Ohi’a & Halapepe. Native birds like the majestic and endangered Pueo and the once virtually extinct Nēnē call this forest home.

Oh, and the Canopy Tours are set up so you’ll learn even more about Hawaii’s native plants and ecosystems (note to kids reading: sell mom & dad with “it’s educational!”)

The Ranch
Pi’iholo Ranch is a working 800-acre cattle ranch, still boasting genuine Paniolo tending hundreds of head of cattle and dozens of horses (this is the real-deal, they even have their own rodeo arena.) The ranch is owned by the most widely known family on Maui (hint: the quickest way to get to Baldwin Beach from here is to take Baldwin Ave.) You can feel the rich authentic ranch history that spans across seven generations and two centuries of Maui’s past. Long known to visitors for their horseback riding, their experience treating visitors right shows – they even thoughtfully include drinks and a snack halfway through the longer (9-line) zipline tour. Just talking to the staff you can tell they’re passionate about Maui and their land, and sharing both with visitors.

Other Info
Participants must be at least 8 years old and weigh between 60 pounds and 250 pounds. The tour is not for people who can’t exert under moderate physical activity, pregnant women, people with back problems or any serious medical condition. Closed toed shoes are required, and long pants (if you even brought ‘em!) are suggested. They supply rain gear if needed.

Key Info:
Location: Piiholo Road, 1.2 miles above Makawao Ave.
Phone: 808-572-1717
Rating source: MauiGuidebook.com
Web: http://www.piiholocanopytours.com/
Price: $90 – $165

View Piiholo Ranch Zipline in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline
• Tedeschi Winery
• Ali’i Kula Lavender

Jumping into a tidepool

Rating: 4.91 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Highly personalized touring, hiking and adventures.
Minuses: High quality isn’t ever cheap.
Sound-bite: “We all felt like we had done something truly amazing, adventurous and memorable.”

UPDATE, MAY 2010 – Looks like one of the bigger and certainly most aggressive players in the market is forcing Alicia out of business. Unfortunately the hike guide business is highly restricted by Maui law, and not a level playing field. A real shame, because exactly what Alicia offered was her taking you out to special places as a friend – something that Maui government, and one of the more established tour operators in particular don’t want to see. If this looked like your dream and you’d like me to set you up with someone special, head over to the contact page and let me know – I can probably hook you up with a knowledgeable local guide.

DETAILS:
Awapuhi Adventures is a small one-woman operation, and let me be the first to tell you that one woman is precisely who makes it so spectacular. Alicia (owner and guide) is a well versed naturalist and has such a passion for the island that it is infectious. Alicia also takes the time to understand your abilities, needs and desires before she designs the perfect adventure for you.

Since this is such a highly personalized tour, you’ll also always get to go at your own pace. You won’t ever feel rushed to hurry up and move on, or pressured to do anything you aren’t comfortable doing.

Alicia has a true gift for understanding her guests, and making the spectacular wonders of Maui accessible to the full spectrum of travelers, whatever their ability. Believe it or not, you don’t even have to be a hiker or a swimmer to see spectacular hidden sights, to snorkel and to experience being under a hidden waterfall.

Aahhhhh...waterfall!

Awapuhi Adventures stands out because your day is tailored so that you visit more than one place and really get to experience Maui in all her glory. In the same day you can experience waterfalls, snorkel in tidepools, visit cultural sites, and have a picnic lunch on a secluded beach. If you find that one of the things scheduled along the way is somewhere you’d rather stick around, then by all means you’ll stick around. It is a whole lot more like coming to visit a friend who is sharing what they love than anything else you might go in to this expecting.

And you’ll actually become immersed in what you’re doing – eating wild fruits right off of the trees, learning about Hawaiian culture, the history, and the unique flora and fauna – oh, and you’ll have such a load of fun doing it.

Yummy picnic lunch.

The price is all inclusive, and includes healthy and yummy home-made food (tailored to your taste and any dietary restrictions), all the equipment you’ll need for your chosen adventures, and pick-up/drop-off from your hotel. Alicia is also trained as a wilderness first responder, and carries a first-aid kit. (Don’t take that for granted…I’ve found more than one guide that had no training for responding to an emergency.)

Definitely don’t let the price scare you off – if you’re a family or small group, it won’t cost more than the group tours. If you’re a couple or traveling alone there is an old saying that goes something like “you may not always get what you pay for, but you never get what you don’t pay for.” A day with Awapuhi Adventures is quite impressively ranked by every single customer review I could find as among the most special and memorable activity they did. If you need more convincing, see the link to their Tripadvisor reviews below, when I wrote this Awapuhi had 27 reviews on there and every single one was 5/5 stars. (I don’t think I’ve ever seen that before.) In fact, another theme runs though those same customer reviews: several who were initially tentative about the value came out so highly satisfied that they booked an additional day.

Key Info:
Location: Pickup or Meet
Phone: 808-269-6031
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Tripadvisor
Web: http://awapuhiadventures.com
Price: $100-$200 per person (Typical, actual cost depends on your party size, tour time & destination.)

You may also be interested in:

• Maui Eco Adventures
• Hike Maui
• Maui Hiking Safaris

Lavender colored umbrellas are provided for shade or sprinkles.

Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars

Rated #1 Gardens Upcountry

In a nutshell: A relaxing escape from the heat, where you can sip lavender teas alongside fairytale gardens.
Minuses: Testosterone kryptonite.
Sound-bite: “A wedding up here would be so enchanting!”

DETAILS:
My wife absolutely loves Ali”i Kula Lavender. Every time her girlfriends (or mother…or aunts…or cousins) come to visit Maui, it is guaranteed there will be at least one escape to AKL. What is it that that attracts women here with a gravitational force stronger than Johnny Depp and Brad Pitt combined? Is it the fragrant lavender gardens? The crafts? The shop with all manner of lavender-infused products? I believe it is simpler than that: the idea that the ladies can sip lavender teas whilst sitting in a garden gazebo nestled alongside scenery plucked straight out of fairytale land. For the ladies, this place just feels like heaven.

Okay, great for the ladies, but what about their men? Let’s face it, we’re often reluctantly dragged along simply hoping we can endure for the sake of Sunday football or some other such trade-off. Fear not, all but the most testosterone-enslaved man can find plenty to enjoy here. The views are impressive and the air is a refreshingly cool break from the heat and sun of endless days on the beach. And spending some alone-time with a loved one somewhere romantic is something I think we all appreciate. (Did I mention you can score some spectacular grill spices alongside the culinary lavender selections in the gift shop? Just sayin’…)

Photo: Spronco via Panoramo

The first thing you’ll notice when you get to AKL is the heavenly scent of lavender. It permeates the air – and who will deny its soothing scent isn’t mood altering? You’ll also notice is that it really is cooler up here! In fact, at 4,000 ft. elevation, it is often more than 10 degrees (F) cooler than the hot resort areas. (Bring along a light sweater or an extra shirt if you’re heading here early or late in the day.)

Expansive views stretch endlessly. The mountainsides of Haleakala roll down beneath you through miles of farms and sugar cane and resorts far below, finally plunging into the ocean on either side of the Valley Isle’s isthmus. The West Maui mountains peaks are beyond, and are dwarfed by your perspective standing on the side of the immense Haleakala Volcano, now 20 miles away and close to eye-level with West Maui summits. At this elevation, often in the afternoons the clouds begin roll in, and they hang so low it feels like you could touch them as they pile up against the mountain – or often they roll right in through the gardens creating a mystical ambiance that looks like this should be home to fairies and other such mythical creatures. (Now don’t complain when it is beautiful and bathed in sun when you visit!)

You can take a $12 guided walking tour ($10 if you call ahead) or guide yourself using a free self-guided tour map they provide. They have a treasure hunt with stamps hidden about the garden (great for kids.) There are also plenty of benches, tables and gazebos along with Buddhas, arbors and other ornaments sprinkled throughout the walking paths. This is an absolutely wonderful place stroll around and have a picnic lunch on your way back form Haleakala Crater or any of the other Upcountry sites. (You don’t even need to pack your own picnic, they conveniently sell tasty lunch baskets complimented with lavender-spiked treats.)

Ali'i cuts samples for visitors.

AKL also offers crafts, such as wreath making, and they offer a golf cart tour piloted by the owner Ali’i Chang for $25. An entire article could be written about Ali’i – a man with more Aloha and love for what he does would be hard to find. He freely shares all kinds of interesting stories and facts about lavender and the many other plants and flowers in the gardens while you all cruise along on his lavender colored golf cart. A sweet, charming and entertaining fellow – this is well worth the cost of the tour. (Call ahead to reserve, they seem to have taken this off the website as of late.)

Their quaint shop also has more lavender products than you could ever imagine existed. All made in Maui, and many make great Maui-branded gifts for friends, family and cubicle-buddies back home. From scones, coffee, tea and lemonade to lip balm, bath salts and chocolates, I could go on for quite a while listing all the items – but if you can imagine it with lavender, they’ve got it (and plenty that you never would have imagined!)

Whatever you do, don’t come to AKL in a hurry. This is a peaceful place you’ll definitely want to linger.

Key Info:
Location: 1100 Waipoli Road, Kula
Hours: Daily 9am – 4pm
Phone: 808-878-3004
Rating source: Maui Guidebook
Web: http://www.aliikulalavender.com
Price: Admission: Free; Guided Walking Tours: $10-$12 (9:30, 10:30, 11:30, 1:00, 2:30 Daily)

View Larger Map

You may also be interested in:

• Surfing Goat Dairy
• Tedeschi Winery
• Enchanting Floral Gardens

Grandma's Coffee House

Rating: 4.75 out of 5 stars ^{*how we rate restaurants}

Rated #1 Affordable Breakfast Upcountry

In a nutshell: A rustic country coffee house with home-made baked goods, home-grown & roasted coffee, and hearty breakfast & lunch.
Minuses: Folks looking for the Keokea Starbucks won’t find it here.
Sound-bite: “In a lot of ways, this really was like going to grandma’s house!”

Location:   9232 Kula Hwy, Kula, HI 96790 Phone:   808-878-2140 Website:   www.grandmascoffee.com Menus:   Not Available

Hours:   Daily 7am - 5pm Price:   Affordable Credit Cards:   Yes Views:   Yes Outdoor Seating:   Yes Entertainment:   No Booze:   No Reservations:   No

Description:
Grandma’s is a small and simple rustic upcountry coffee house sitting at 2,800' elevation in the sleepy town of Keokea. Most will pass here on the way to the Tedeschi Winery or driving the Back Side of Haleakala, but it is also worth a diversion on your way back down from Haleakala sunrise for breakfast.

A family business opened in 1918, there is nothing posh or fancy here, in fact the place looks and feels like it has been here forever - and that is a large part of its charm. Grandma's is much like you would have found it in simpler times, and no one is making any apologies for keeping it that way.

Unassuming and authentic goes much deeper than the building. Grandma’s offers fresh home-grown and in-house roasted organic coffee (roasted in their 100-year-old roaster), home-style food that is as filling as it is absolutely delicious, and an impressive assortment of spectacular baked goods that definitely taste like they’re home-made by Grandma (perhaps because many use great-grandma's recipes.)

A small portion of reviewers across the Net take issue with the rustic part, as if old-time charm were a bad thing. This, my friend, is the part that you need to surgically remove and discard for what it is; advice from folks who would be more impressed sitting in a Keokea Starbucks should not be your guide.

If you're impressed by genuine people, big warm Aloha, and a down-home feel to go along with some tasty (and affordable) food, then Grandma’s is a memorable place to put on your list.

Other Reviews: ^{*ordered by accuracy}

Tripadvisor

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You may also be interested in:

• Keokea through Ulupalakua
• Anthony’s Coffee Co.
• Mana Foods

Photo by Ron Dahlquist

Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars

Rated #1 Horseback Upcountry

In a nutshell: Horseback ride in the Martian terrain of Haleakala Crater.
Minuses: Those more interested in the sport of horseback riding beyond sightseeing transportation may be disappointed.
Sound-bite: “I’m so glad I did it. I felt like a kid again at summer camp!”

This tour provides the most spectacular and unique views of any horseback ride on Maui. Okay, so they really have an unfair advantage over the competition here because they go into the Haleakala Crater. Just being present in the Crater is an awesome experience you won’t ever forget.

There are only two options allowed by the National Park Service for traveling on the trails inside the crater: you hike in, or you ride a horse. If you’re not an endurance hiker, it’s one heck of a workout hiking back out. Going on a horse will take regular folks a whole lot further in than most would otherwise see, and you won’t be accompanied with that nagging feeling of wondering if you’ll be able to sustain gaining 2500′ in just under four miles (and with 1/3 less oxygen in your lungs) hiking back out!

Now the guys at Pony Express do a whole lot more than just show up here with horses for hire. First off, their guides are top notch. Besides knowing their history and geology, they also show a passion for what they do and go above and beyond what you would expect. They’ve been known to take photos and email them to patrons after the trip (yeah, for free.) They also won’t hesitate to swap horses with you if you happen to have trouble with yours. Really, it comes down to having an unbridled passion for what they do, and in taking pleasure in sharing that passion with you.

Sliding Sands Trailhead

The ride starts at the Sliding Sands trailhead parking lot, just below the summit lookout point and continues to the base of the crater 3.8 miles in. You will be served a picnic lunch, and be given some time to enjoy something you may never have not heard before: absolute and utter silence.

Now this isn’t exactly a pony ride at the county fair – if you’re a beginner it is going to be a fairly challenging four hours for you. The trail descends 2500′ in elevation in 3.8 miles – and if you’re prone to vertigo, or just still a bit scared of riding on a horse, you might not feel comfortable descending on a sometimes steep and always narrow cinder trail. Now that isn’t to say plenty of beginner riders don’t have a spectacular time (because they definitely do) – but four hours on a horse is a long time for someone not used to riding, and if you’re not prepared for that fact, you might want to investigate by taking a shorter ride first.

Oh, and don’t underestimate the cold up here! You definitely want to wear layers – it can go below freezing in the winter, and temperatures in the 40°s and 50°s (F) are commonplace. The sun is also stronger up here – so bring plenty of sunscreen and maybe even gloves. (What, you didn’t pack gloves?!? If you wanna look like the smartest guy/gal in the group, stop and grab some cheap work gloves at the hardware store on your way up.)

Key Info:
Location: Crater Road, Kula
Phone: 808-667-2200
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Google
Web: http://www.ponyexpresstours.com
Price: $160 – $180

View Haleakala on Horseback Pony Express Tours in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Haleakala Crater (Haleakala National Park Summit Area)
• Haleakala Bike Company
• Pi’iholo Ranch Canopy Tours

The oldest, most experienced hiking company in the state.

Key Info:
Location: Meet at Park N Ride commuter lot., Kahului
Phone: 866-324-6284
Rating source: Tripadvisor
Web: http://www.hikemaui.com/
Price: $70 – $160

View Kahului Maui Park N Ride Lot in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Awapuhi Adventures
• Maui Eco Adventures
• Maui Hiking Safaris

Horseback riding on a working cattle ranch and dramatic countryside. They also have ziplines.

Key Info:
Location: 325 Waiahiwi Road, Makawao
Phone: 808-357-5544
Rating source: Maui Guidebook
Web: http://www.piiholo.com/horseback.html
Price: $75 – $325

View Piiholo Ranch Horseback Riding in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Thompson Ranch
• Pony Express Tours
• Pi’iholo Ranch Canopy Tours