Maui Guidebook

South Maui – Quick Summary

Mark — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 02:31:03 +0000

General Geographic Area: South Maui

In a nutshell: South Maui is home to the spectacular world-class beaches of Kihei, Wailea and Makena. Wailea, to the south of this region, boasts exclusive word-class resorts and golf, while Kihei to the north is where you’ll find more down-to-earth hotels & condos.
Minuses: Once off the beach, the Kihei part of South Maui has lots of shops and food, but feels much more like California than Hawaii.
Sound-bite: “How many new beaches should we find today?”

The area called “South Maui” is a coastal strip which is actually geographically on the south-west coast of the island. Starting in North Kihei, South Maui extends as far south as you can drive, La Perouse Bay. The popular tourist destinations of Kihei, Wailea and Makena (in that order) comprise virtually all in this area, and generally speaking, the beaches and lodging become more posh and exclusive the further south you go. Several of the absolute best of Maui’s high-end resorts are concentrated in the Wailea area. There are also six spectacular golf courses in South Maui to choose from.

South Maui has two main thoroughfares: South Kihei Road, and the Pi’ilani Highway (Hwy 31.) South Kihei Road runs right along the scenic shoreline, and at its southern termination connects to the main north-south thoroughfare through Wailea and Makena. The Pi’ilani Highway parallels the coastline about a half-mile up the mountain and is a much faster (though less scenic) route that bypasses most of the shore-town destinations. The Pi’ilani Highway is your best bet if you know where you are going. If you’re just taking your good old time, sightseeing, or generally checking out the lay of the land, South Kihei Road is a better choice.

Ignore maps that connect South Maui with Upcountry Maui. No public roads exist to connect these areas. Many private, gated, nonexistent and/or 4WD roads show on GPS and online maps of Maui (including Google Maps.)

The largest shopping center is called “Pi’ilani Village Shopping Center” and is the only shopping center on the Pi’ilani Highway. Anchored by Safeway and Hilo Hattie’s. Pi’ilani Center also has a gas station, Roy’s, Starbucks, Outback, two banks and a dry cleaner – among many other shops you’ll find useful if staying in South Maui for any period of time.

There are many smaller strip-malls, restaurants and places to shop scattered along the length of South Kihei Road – Pretty much anything you’d expect to find at a typical smaller US beach town is available somewhere along this road.

For more specific information on South Maui, browse the South Maui category.

West Maui – Quick Summary

Mark — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 04:48:36 +0000

General Geographic Area: West Maui

In a nutshell: West Maui is home to loads of beautiful beaches, and the towns of Lahaina and Ka’anapali. To the north of this region, Ka’anapali and Kapalua boast plenty of higher-end condos and resort hotels, plus four word-class golf courses. Lahaina, the most-visited spot on Maui, is midway around the head and where you’ll find lower and mid-range lodging options.
Minuses: Only one narrow two-lane road in and out makes for the most congested traffic in Maui.
Sound-bite: “Today: Golf lessons, shopping, then some beach time to rest up for party-time tonight in Lahaina!”

West Maui is a large area which has seen the majority of Maui’s hotel and resort development. Ka’anapali Beach Resort is Maui’s largest (and first) master-planned resort, boasting 11 hotels and condos. Lahaina, known as Maui’s old whaling, party and shopping town also boasts loads of history and is home to one of Maui’s two main recreational ports. West Maui has four world-class golf courses, including the world-renowned PGA championship Plantation Course at Kapalua.

West Maui has only one main thoroughfare: the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy 30.) The Honoapiilani Highway runs right along the scenic shoreline, and in some places, right up to the shorebreak. It makes for fantastically unique drive. The highway continues all the way around the scenic West Maui Mountains, finishing up along a precarious cliff-edge drive that emerges back on the other side of Central Maui from where you started.

Being the most densely populated tourist area, and having only one narrow road in and out makes for heavy traffic. When there is an accident, forget about it – the road can be closed off entirely, cutting off access in or out of this side of the island for many hours at a time.

There are many opportunities for shopping and dining and new condos, hotels, time-shares, shopping centers and strip malls continue to spring up year after year.

For more specific information on West Maui, browse the West Maui category.

Upcountry Maui – Quick Summary

Mark — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:02:58 +0000

General Geographic Area: Upcountry Maui

In a nutshell: “Upcountry” is a term which describes not only a way of life, but much of the area on the Haleakala side of Maui away from the shoreline. The largest towns Upcountry are Pukalani, Makawao, Kula and Haiku. Although Upcountry is mostly rural, agricultural and residential, Upcountry Maui also offers quite a bit for visitors too.
Minuses: No beaches, and far less tourism oriented.
Sound-bite: “Excuse me ma’am, how do I get back to the down-country?”

“Upcountry” is as much a lifestyle as it is a place. Many people who live Upcountry consider themselves to be quite different from those fancy “city-slickers” who live in paces like Kahului, Wailuku, Kihei or West Maui. Take the “up” off and you have the closest translation of what this term would mean on the mainland: “Country” (with a capital C!) There are Upcountry bumper stickers that proudly proclaim the owner’s mindset, and depending on who you ask, many folks have an opinion on who/what/where is qualified to be considered worthy of that label.

Back to the geography: like all the geographic regions in Maui there are no precisely defined boundaries to Upcountry (more accurately: especially Upcountry!) For example, depending on who you ask, Upcountry can start in, just above, or well above Paia Town. Parts of Paia could be any or all of: “Upcountry”, “Central Maui”, “Road to Hana” and even “North Shore.” One thing is in definite agreement: Upcountry has no water sports

Upcountry Maui has several thoroughfares, but the Haleakala Highway (Hwy 37), Maui’s biggest highway, will be the entry route into Upcountry Maui for most. Other primary roads are Baldwin Avenue (Hwy 390) which heads from Paia up to Makawao; Makawao Avenue (west Hwy 365), which connects Makawao to the Haleakala Highway; Kaupakalua Road (east Hwy 365) connects Makawao to Haiku and the start of twisty “Road to Hana” section of Hana Highway (mile marker 0 of Hwy 360.)

Upcountry it is especially important to take GPS and online maps (including Google Maps) with a grain of salt. Be aware that there are many private, gated, nonexistent, cane and/or 4WD roads that show on GPS as public roads. Ignore maps that connect Upcountry to South Maui. No public roads exist to connect these areas.

For more specific information on Upcountry Maui, browse the Upcountry Maui category.

Central Maui – Quick Summary

Mark — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 02:49:25 +0000

General Geographic Area: Central Maui

In a nutshell: Central Maui is the isthmus between West Maui and Haleakala. It is also where most business gets done on Maui. Visitors will pass through here several times, usually on the way to somewhere else.
Minuses: The Pu’unene Sugar Mill spewing smoke from its stacks into the blue sky sure is a buzzkill.
Sound-bite: “OMG, OGG!”

Central Maui is where Maui’s business gets done. The Kahului Airport and Harbor are where all our “stuff” (and people) come in. The Maui County government, Costco, WalMart, two protected wetlands and ‘Iao Valley…just to name a few of the many reasons you might end up in Central Maui on purpose. Like most of the island, there are also several absolutely spectacular beaches here – including the beach where kitesurfing was born.

Central Maui is comprised largely of the isthmus between West Maui and Haleakala. Kahului and Wailuku are the largest towns in this area. Most visitors will fly in to the Kahului airport.

While it is largely not a tourist destination in and of itself, Central Maui is a hub virtually every visitor will (and must) pass through several times. Traveling from either of the resort areas (West and South Maui) to any other region of Maui requires passing through Central Maui.

Central Maui has several main highways crossing through it, many of which you’re bound to find yourself on. Practically every visitor will take Airport Road, which turns into Dairy Road (Hwy 380) to the junction of 380 & 311. If you are staying in West Maui, you’ll continue on 380 (which becomes the Kuihelani Highway here) to the other side of the central valley. South Maui visitors will take the Mokulele Highway (Hwy 311) from the junction. If you happen to be one of the few lucky folks staying in on the North Shore, Upcountry or Road to Hana regions, you’ll be exiting Central Maui sooner, and by hanging a left onto Hana Highway (Hwy 36) at the K-Mart on Dairy Road.

Ma’alaia Harbor, the Maui Ocean Center and ‘Iao Valley are among the main tourist attractions in Central Maui – but many visitors will find themselves shopping at one of the big box stores, supermarkets or Central Maui’s only two-story shopping mall, the Ka’ahumanu Center. (Don’t be tempted to avoid trying to pronounce Ka’ahumanu by calling it the “Maui Mall” – especially if you’re asking for directions – there is a shopping center/strip mall just a bit down the same road with that very name.)

For more specific information on Central Maui, browse the Central Maui category.

Road to Hana – Quick Summary

Mark — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 21:57:41 +0000

General Geographic Area: Road to Hana Maui

In a nutshell: The Road to Hana is the crown-jewel of Hawaii driving tours. Lush rainforest, dramatic and rugged ocean vistas, countless waterfalls and pools.
Minuses: If you get car-sick, there are going to be 600 opportunities to review your breakfast.
Sound-bite: “600 turns?!? More like one 50-mile-long turn…”

Just exactly where “The Road to Hana” begins and where it ends is subject to some debate. For my guide purposes, I usually start in the North Shore (Paia area) and end at what we call Haleakala’s Back Side (a bit past Hana.)

Driving to Hana is not a commute, or even the means to an end – the drive is an adventure in and of itself. “The adventure is in the journey” may be cliché, but it is also said that every cliché harbors a kernel of truth – there is much more than just the kernel in this one. In fact, no matter how many times I have driven this road, (including the few times I was silly enough to take it for granted), the adventure is just as magical, engaging, and never the same twice. The raw natural beauty is dynamic, containing countless hidden treasures and always just every bit as spectacular no matter how many times I drive it. The Road to Hana is, in my opinion, the most spectacular and beautiful road in the world.

As the name suggests, the thoroughfare in this section of the guide is made up by just one road: Hana Highway (Hwy 36 & 360). But don’t let the name “highway” fool you – The majority of time you’ll be spending on the Hana Highway is a narrow, twisting, sometimes one-lane road (forget about a shoulder) with an estimated 600 turns and 54 mostly one-lane bridges. For those of you that enjoy a challenging drive, this could be your absolute favorite anywhere. A Mustang convertible, the quintessential Maui rental car, is probably the best car for the driving enthusiast, and convertibles and Jeeps with the top off will be rewarded with stunning unobstructed views. (But don’t get too smug looking at the poor sap in the Ford Taurus – because he’ll likely get payback when you’re reminded that this is the rainforest and that the next place to pull over ain’t soon enough.)

For those that see driving as the way to get from A to B, and especially if you’re an overly timid (or just plan bad) driver, you still should not skip the opportunity to see this jewel of Hawaii – there are some fantastic van tours that can add a dimension to the journey you could never have on your own.

There is only one gas station past Paia on this road, and that is in Hana Town. The price of gas there will make you feel like you were getting a great deal everywhere else (which, until you’ve gassed up in Hana, will be hard to believe!) There is little shopping of significance beyond some roadside fruit stands and the jungle version of a strip-mall in the middle of nowhere (a strip of ramshackle fruit stands, BBQ, fish taco, art, and whatever pops up.) And even in Hana, lets just say your choices are very limited. Best to bring along everything you will need for the whole day, aside from fruit and banana bread – those items are abundant, and usually very yummy!

Convenience tip: Anthony’s Coffee Co. (you’ll pass right by when you drive through Paia) sells super-convenient and tasty picnic lunches. Mana Foods (also in Paia) is among the most economical (and healthy) places to stock up on water/drinks, snacks and prepared foods.

For more specific information on the Road to Hana, browse the Road to Hana category.
I also have a Road to Hana article in the works. Stay tuned

Scotch Mist Sailing Charters

Mark — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 06:48:22 +0000

Scotch Mist

Rating: 4.45 out of 5 stars

Scotch Mist is a meticulously maintained, super-fast Santa Cruz 50 sailing yacht. If you’re looking for a pure sailing trip, you’re in for a treat.

You might think it goes without saying, but they actually do sail their boat – not run on engines (believe it or not, many of the commercial sailboats here will raise the sail for show in between a mostly engine-run tour.) Now, to appreciate what this really means, you’re going to need to actually sail! The first thing you will notice is how quiet and peaceful it is out on the ocean. No engines droning in the background – and this brings you closer to the ocean, and the people you’re sharing this experience with. (It also brings the creatures in the ocean, like whales and dolphins closer.)

Scotch Mist is intimate – their charters are limited to 25 max – and frequently can have half that many. It is also crewed by folks that absolutely love to sail, and are passionate about sharing their loves of sailing and Maui with visitors. You just can’t fake that level of passion when you do this every day.

Key Info:
Location: Slip #2, Lahaina Harbor
Phone: 808-661-0386
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Google
Web: http://www.scotchmistsailingcharters.com
Price: $50 – $90

Eskimo Candy

Mark — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:56:11 +0000

Eskimo Candy is hidden inside a nondescript commercial area.

Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: A small fish market & cafe that serves the most delicious and inexpensive seafood in South Maui.
Minuses: No weekend or evening hours.
Sound-bite: “Eskimo Candy has the absolute best poke I’ve found.”

Eskimo Candy doesn’t try to pretend to be anything it isn’t – located in a commercial district, this small market & cafe is attached to their fresh seafood distribution warehouse. Eskimo Candy’s main focus is on being purveyors of the best quality seafood to restaurants and grocery stores – and that my friends, is precisely why they’ve got the choicest pick of seafood for their market & cafe customers.

Eskimo Candy got our #1 rating in two different categories because not only do they have among the best fresh fish for sale to the public, but they’ve also got a superb and surprisingly inexpensive cafe to eat-in or take-out. The prices are astoundingly inexpensive compared to the quality – I mean, as far as the prepared food goes, you could easily pay significantly more for this food sitting on a plate just a short drive down South Kihei Road.

They have a few indoor tables, and some outdoor picnic seating – but the real way to do Eskimo Candy is to get the food to take-out, then drive a few minutes down the road and enjoy a tasty picnic on the spectacular South Maui beach of your choice.

If you’re staying in a condo with a kitchen and plan on cooking during your vacation, unprepared fish is also available at very reasonable prices.

Notes:
- The poke and fish & chips are their specialties.
- Choose the “fresh fish” option (instead of frozen) on the fish & chips.

Key Info:
Location: 2665 Wai Wai Place, Kihei Get directions
GPS Coordinates: 20.744817,-156.449754
Phone: 808-879-5686
Web: http://www.eskimocandy.com/
Meal Price: $7-$15/person

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Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline

Mark — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 04:35:34 +0000

Piiholo Zipline

Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Spectacular fly-by views of the forest, countryside, ocean and volcano.
Minuses: Not for the budget traveler.
Sound-bite: “It was like floating through the forest in a 40 MPH recliner!”

The Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline is the newest zipline course on Maui. Boasting five lines, including the longest side-by-side line in Hawaii (over a half mile long.) All the lines at Pi’iholo can accommodate at least two parallel riders, so it is perfect for couples and family. (They have one zipline that has four parallel lines which is a blast if you brought the kids along.)

Just above Makawao Town at 2000′ elevation, visiting Pi’iholo is a dramatic change in scenery and a refreshingly cool contrast from hot days of beach and sun.

With the ocean far below and off in the distance, you glide high and free above fragrant eucalyptus canopy. Zipping along up here as misty mountain clouds pass through the tree-tops becomes more like flying high over hobbit-land in a dream than the “Hawaiian vacation” you may have imagined. You realize up here that Maui is so much more than beaches and tiki torches depicted on postcards – what you know about Maui takes on yet another spectacular facet.

At heights up to 600′ off the ground, and speeds of up to 40 MPH, it is also definitely a thrill ride – but even a nervous young woman who was coerced into going by her husband was put to ease by the very well trained, and friendly staff. In fact she said that the single biggest factor to put her at ease was the understanding and patient explanations of the safety mechanisms built into the design. (I found that perspective interesting, because I just automatically assumed cheating death is part of the thrill!)

Wildlife Facts

Common wildlife sightings include axis deer, mountain boar, the endangered Pueo and Nēnē. There is a Safe Harbor nursery and preserve for the Nēnē located on the ranch. More than 300 head of cattle roam the ranch, and 40 horses are corralled on the property.

But this isn’t just fantasy-dream meets thrill ride – the activity also stuffs its fair share of sight-seeing and eco-adventure into the package. Flying over rough terrain and verdant gulches, riders soar over a beautiful forest canopy of both exotic and native plants and trees – natives such as Koa, Ohi’a & Halapepe. Native birds like the majestic and endangered Pueo and the once virtually extinct Nēnē call this forest home.

The Ranch
Pi’iholo Ranch is a working 800-acre cattle ranch, still boasting genuine Paniolo tending hundreds of head of cattle and dozens of horses (this is the real-deal, they even have their own rodeo arena.) The ranch is owned by the most widely known family on Maui (hint: the quickest way to get to Baldwin Beach from here from is to take Baldwin Ave.) You can feel the rich authentic ranch history that spans across seven generations and two centuries of Maui’s past. Long known to visitors for their horseback riding and ATV tours, their experience treating visitors right shows – they even thoughtfully include drinks and a snack halfway through your zipline tour. Just talking to the staff you can tell they’re passionate about Maui and their land, and sharing both with visitors.

Other Info
All tours start with a walk across a 317-foot suspended bridge, which is an unusual experience in itself. Participants must be at least 10 years old and weigh between 75 pounds and 275 pounds for ziplining and at least 60 pounds for Tango Tower (a 42-foot tall climbing tower and rope course.) The tour is not for people who can’t exert under moderate physical activity, pregnant women, people with back problems or any serious medical condition. Closed toed shoes are required, and long pants (if you even brought ‘em!) are suggested. They supply rain gear if needed. They’re currently offering a 10% discount if you book direct on their website.

Key Info:
Location: 325 Waiahiwi Road, Makawao
Phone: 808-572-1717
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Yelp
Web: http://www.piiholozipline.com/
Price: $140 – $190

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Maui Stables

Mark — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 19:11:45 +0000

Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars

#1 – Article in development. No Ka Oi!

Key Info:
Location: Kipahulu
Phone: 808-248-7799
Rating source: Yelp
Web: http://www.mauistables.com
Price: $150

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Amigo’s Kihei

Mark — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 02:41:11 +0000

Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars

This must be the location the owners spend the most time at…because it shows!

Top-rated authentic taqueria. Affordable, fast and made-to-order tacos, flautas, carnitas, chile verde, chimichangas, taco salads, egg burritos, huevos rancheros, chicken mole and al pastor – among other authentic dishes.

Grab a couple Mexican beers or margaritas to go along with your meal.

Also in Kihei, avoid their Lahaina location.

Menu: Menu

Location: 41 E. Lipoa St., Kihei, HI 96753
Phone: 808-879-9952
Rating source: Google &

Web:

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Maui Tacos (S. Kihei Rd.)
Capische?
Cilantro Mexican Grill