Oheo Gulch aka Seven Sacred Pools
(Photo taken when water flow was low)

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: The Seven Sacred Pools are the most popular attraction in East Maui. Beautiful waterfalls, pools, in an absolutely stunning setting. Easy access and full facilities.
Minuses: It gets crowded as the day goes on. Access to pools is closed off frequently in wet weather.
Sound-bite: “Is that guy really going to jump from there?”

DETAILS:
‘Ohe’o Gulch is a string of pools and waterfalls, starting many miles up the mountain, that flow one after another, cascading over dramatic waterfalls, leading to the rugged Kipahulu coastline and the deep-blue Hawaiian ocean.

The most accessible pools are also the most particularly suited for swimming, cliff-jumping (or just gawking at daring lunatics brave folks who will jump from the bridge 60 feet above into the pool below!) For the sane, there are also several less suicidal places to jump from – just be sure to get good information on where it is safe to jump, or better yet, survey the landing area yourself. There are many reminders of the risk involved, including a notice-board by the ranger station that contains clippings of newspaper articles describing accidents. (Note: If you do choose to jump, do so without any jewelry. If you need to ask why, just ask one of the local guys with snorkel gear scouring below the jump spots, how much force an unplanned landing can exert on your new engagement ring!)

So, by this time you may be asking: “Which is it? ‘Ohe’o Gulch, or The Seven Sacred Pools?” Well, have you have ever met someone who changed their name to something more special – something that suits them better than their “plane-Jane” given name? It is kind of like that. The proper name of this attraction, ‘Ohe’o (Oh-Hey-Oh) Gulch, most definitely does not do the majesty of these pools justice. So many years ago when the owner of a local inn wanted to sell his location as being spectacular, he found he had some serious difficulty hawking “Visit the Gulch!” and a new name was born. Whatever you call it, this collection of (way more than seven) pools and waterfalls is absolutely spectacular, and certainly worthy of an equally spectacular name!

‘Ohe’o gulch is Part of the Haleakala National Park, so the fee you pay here will also get you in to the Haleakala Summit (and vice versa – so save your receipt!) Admission to the entire park is $10 for a three-day pass or $25 bucks gets you an annual pass to Haleakala, Volcanoes (Big Island) and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau (Big Island) National Parks.

As I said earlier, the pools are very popular, so you should expect the place to become more and more crowded as the day progresses. There are a number of ways to avoid the crowds at ‘Ohe’o – all involve getting there earlier than everyone else. The only really good options for visitors to get there before everyone is to stay in Hana (or on the Road to Hana) overnight and go there first thing in the morning. Another option is to get started very, very early (isn’t this your vacation?!?) and be one step ahead of the critical mass of visitors. One thing you definitely don’t want to do is to rush the adventure on the way (aka The Road to Hana.)

There are full National Park facilities at ‘Ohe’o, including a Ranger Station (with displays and great information), newly constructed (actually all the following are still under construction at time of posting) bathrooms, new expanded camping facilities and large parking lots.

Another popular activity in the park, just on the other side of the road is hiking the Pipiwai Trail which passes stunning vistas, pools, waterfalls (including the 200′ Makahiku Falls), jungle, a bamboo forest, culminating at the base of the 400′ high Waimoku Falls! (See the Pipiwai Trail and Waimoku Falls post for more detail.)

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #42 (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 31)
GPS Coordinates: 20.661458,-156.045299
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Information Facility, Camping (no permit req’d), grills, picnic tables and toilets. (No potable water.)
Fee: $10 – NPS Info: http://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/kipahulu.htm
Get directions

View Seven Sacred Pools aka ‘Ohe’o Gulch in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Road to Hana – Quick Summary
• Pipiwai Trail & Waimoku Falls
• Twin Falls

The top half of the Pipiwai Trail cuts though an immense and unforgettable bamboo forest

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Pipiwai Trail is a treasure of the National Park System that passes through diverse scenery and culminates at the base of an absolutely spectacular waterfall.
Minuses: You’ll be sharing the trail with lots of other folks.
Sound-bite: [insert hollow percussive sounds of bamboo striking one another]

DETAILS:
Taking into account the easy accessibility, the Pipiwai Trail offers, hands-down, the all-around best of East Maui’s most dramatic stream and waterfall hikes. A 1.5 mile trail hugs a string of pools and waterfalls, which were sculpted into the lava rock many eons before any human ever walked on these islands. Pools and waterfalls, cascading into more pools, and more waterfalls, unfold as you walk the trail framed by the green diversity of the lush tropical rainforest. The dramatic diversity then suddenly morphs into the zen-oneness of an immense bamboo forest. Once released from the bamboo, you’re dropped at the very base of a towering sheer-cliff waterfall worthy of a slow-motion Imax fly-by.

The only thing missing from this hike is solitude; because of the easy National Park access, you definitely won’t have this one all to yourself. (Consider the Wailua & Ke’anae hike for that)

Oh, did I forget to mention that the trail is safe, on the easy-to-moderate level to hike, and well maintained by the National Park Service? (They’ve even built a boardwalk to span the muddy sections – oooh the luxury!)

The trail is just mauka the Hana Hwy at Haleakala National Park Kipahulu (Seven Sacred Pools.) Contrary to just about all the information available elsewhere (including the sign at the head of the trail), the trail is actually only 1.5 miles each way and gains 650′ in elevation. That said, you need at least a couple hours if you plan to enjoy yourself, maybe twice that if you stop a lot and/or aren’t a regular walker/hiker.

This NPS Map more accurately shows the trail and streams. (click to open full HNP map from nps.gov in new window)

The trail begins just across the road from the parking lot, and you don’t have to walk very far (just over a half mile) before you come to the first set of large and impressive waterfalls: the Falls at Makahiku. These mighty thundering falls will probably be more than enough waterfall for most. Plunging almost 200′ over a verdant cliff covered with bamboo, prehistoric-looking ferns and Tarzan-worthy jungle vines melting into the postcard-perfect Hawaiian rainforest valley below – the scene is breathtaking. If you’re not fit enough to continue another mile (the hike back is all downhill, so we won’t count that!) you’ll probably be satisfied with these falls as your end-point. But if you’re capable, we want you to know better: this is just an appetizer to ready you for the much more impressive journey to come.

Note: Please be aware of unsafe high water or flash-flooding that may be present, or occur during periods of heavy rainfall conditions upstream.

As you continue, you’ll notice a side path with signs discouraging you from heading in that direction. The National Park Service has liability concerns with this path, because it gives you access to what is now commonly called “Infinity Pool.” Infinity Pool is an impressive place – a natural pool, perched at the precipice of a waterfall and sheer lava-rock cliff face that drops around 200′ into the valley below.

If you are prepared to use you’re noggin and make sure you fully understand current conditions and risks, this can be another memorable destination in itself. During normal conditions, the water flows over only the far side; the near side of this pool has taller, thick rock lip that will keep anyone with sense enough to stay on the pool-side from a date with gravity. From inside the pool you will observe why the name Infinity Pool makes sense – views from the pool emulate that of a resort-style Infinity pool and are jaw-dropping, as the deep blue of the ocean appears to meet the edge of the pool. Once out of the pool, if you’re an off-trail kind of hiker who hasn’t had enough off-trail, you can continue your side-trip upstream along the streambed (be ready to do some swimming and climbing) and check out some more worthy pools and waterfalls.

A couple pools you'll see from one of the bridges. Hint: They're bigger than they look from up here!

Back on the Pipiwai Trail, you’ll pass though a gate and come to another highlight – a gigantic banyan tree – with a footprint the size of a decent-sized house! Over years, a banyan’s aerial prop roots form into new trunks of their own, expanding continually outward. Looking at this tree in front of you, with new trunks sprouted out along the far-reaching branches, ever further from their source, you can see why Hinduism considers the banyan the symbol of eternal life. If you’re a tree climber (or you have some in-tow like I usually do) you’ll be spending more than a couple minutes here.

Past the Banyan, another side-trail will present itself (hint: the Park Service has placed a TRAIL arrow here pointing away from it (and toward the main trail.) This side trail soon takes you to a view of cave, pool & waterfall combination that my words (or photography) have not yet been able to do justice. It is definitely a value at the price of a few extra steps.

Continuing along the trail you’ll notice the scenery changing to bamboo. It is a pretty quick change, starting around the time you cross two bridges. Believe it or not, the same nuts brave folks you saw jumping from the bridge at the highway sometimes come up here to get their adrenaline fix. There are only a few choice people I’d advise to attempt jumping here (and it isn’t because they’re skilled jumpers!)

Mossy rough-hewn stone block steps evoke scenes out of "The Land of the Lost"

The bamboo will become thicker, and the ambiance and hollow percussive sounds of bamboo striking one another, will begin to transport you to an Asian nether-world. (This is also where the boardwalk comes in and save you from having your shoes sucked off by thick mud.) Various implementations of stone steps, all appearing to date from different periods in ancient pre-history, augment the scene to where running across some Sleestacks hunting dinosaur eggs wouldn’t look out of place in the least.

As the trail continues winding, if you pay careful attention the bamboo will begin to thin and trees will start coming back. It is right at this point that a grove of Mountain Apple trees can be found (if you know what you’re looking for.) If you’re lucky enough to be here in summer, you’re in for a refreshing treat. Mountain Apples are oddly attached to the trees on which they grow. Instead of being on a stem that terminates from a minor branch, like most fruit, Mountain Apples grow on a small stem directly out of the main branches (and even the trunk) of the `ohi`a `ai tree. (Yeah, you can call it a Mountain Apple tree!) It definitely looks Dr. Seus-ish to the uninitiated.

Just so you know what to look for – they don’t call ‘em mountain apples for nothing – they’re (mostly) red and are shaped like a cross between an apple and a pear. Riper (to the point where the skin begins to become damaged) is better. (more info: Canoe Plants of Ancient Hawaii)

Just a bit further and some rock-hopping over a pretty tame stream, and this scenery-packed hike culminates at the base of sheer 400′ cliffs, with spectacular Waimoku Falls quite literally falling to Earth right in front of you. In fact, when you’ve reached the end, you’re smack at the base of the falls, and could theoretically walk right up and stand under them. I would suggest you skip that part, and instead look at all the fallen boulders and debris all around the splash zone and consider how they got there. I’m no rocket scientist, but I’d venture to guess you don’t need much of a stick (and there are quite a lot of ‘em out here) traveling in a 400′ free-fall, backed by tons of water, to harpoon the unlucky recipient. (We won’t even imagine what a basketball sized boulder is capable of.) You will, however, be able to stand close enough that you’ll be cooled and refreshed by the mist and wind created by the falling water, while awed at the size and power of what lies within a few arms length before you.

Once you’ve enjoyed the cooling of the waterfall, and are ready to continue, you reverse the path from where you came. Easier (downhill) but just as rewarding with a new angle from which to view the scenery.

Key Info: (for trailhead @ HNP Kipahulu.)
Mile Marker: #42 (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 31)
GPS Coordinates: 20.661458,-156.045299
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Information Facility, Camping (no permit req’d), grills, picnic tables and toilets. (No potable water.)
Fee: $10 – NPS Info: http://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/kipahulu.htm
Get directions

View Pipiwai Trail & Waimoku Falls in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Seven Sacred Pools aka 'Ohe'o Gulch
• Valley Isle Excursions
• Road to Hana – Quick Summary

Red Sand Beach is a dramatically beautiful place.

Rating: 4.2 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Red Sand Beach is a dramatically beautiful place that you’ll likely never forget.
Minuses: The short hike to the beach is hazardous.
Sound-bite: “Has the Mothership departed without me?”

DETAILS:
Red Sand Beach is a dramatic and beautiful place unlike any you’ve likely ever seen. The ocean here is always a deep, surreal, Kool-Aid blue, and rages relentlessly against the dramatic and rugged coastline. The beach itself is carved out of the Ka’uiki Head cinder cone, whose rust-red lava cinder cliffs tower, impossibly intact, to sheer vertical heights. The cove is protected on the ocean side by a wall of jagged black lava rock, further contributing to this almost psychedelic-induced hallucinatory scene.

View from the trail as you approach the cove.

A flock of 'iwa ply the sky above the cliffs, looking for prey below. They are quite impressive to watch as they are significant birds and masters of wind currents, and in this setting look like pterodactyls cruising over a prehistoric sky. The icing on the surreality cake are the nudists and eccentric characters who also frequent this beach. Strike up a conversation with one of these folks and it is certain to add more color to your Jimi Hendrix Experience.

Speaking of eccentrics, if you are among the chosen few awaiting the Mothership, local hippie lore has whispered in my ear more than once that this is where she will pick up her children. In fact, once a guy told me that he believes the Mothership resides just below the sands of this beach, waiting for the preordained moment to lift up above the surface and take off. Far out, man.

Back on Earth, when you’re following the portion of the trail that bypasses the slide, and are down on the shoreline, take a look around. You will notice some large pieces of old grave markers from the Japanese cemetery above are down here. Now notice the landslide that blocked the original trail, and how the cemetery is slowly being removed to erosion. I’ve never seen more than a marker down here, but I do know gravity doesn’t pick and choose what falls. Yikes!

I ranked it lower than five stars because I don’t want it to go to the top of the list so that everyone reading the guidebook mindlessly goes there. If you got this far in the article then you should know it is absolutely worthy of being at the very top of your Hana list!

A couple makes their way up to the first view of the beach.

Notes on finding this beach:
To get to this beach is tricky, and can be dangerous (especially if you are not sure-footed.) Use the Google Map below, with the following notes:
1. The Google Map has Uakea Rd. in the wrong place, and mysteriously extending to Red Sand Beach. It does not. The blue line starts at the satellite image position where Uakea Rd actually ends, and roughly follows the trail.
2. Park on the side of the road just outside of the Hotel Hana Maui parking lot. You will walk across the Hana Community Center field looking for a trail on your right hand side. Recently the trail has been well-cleared (bay far the most I’ve seen in a decade) and is now very easy to find. (The jungle grows quickly, so this could change!)
3. If you end up at the Japanese Cemetery, you need to back-track to one of the paths that go downhill. I would not take the suggestion of other guidebooks and use that trail right next to the cemetery any longer.
4. Bear in mind that if you have also obtained directions from another source, the original ridge trail has recently been partially erased by a landslide. You will need to follow one of the other trails down to, and then along the shoreline, and then back up to the part of the trail beyond the slide (which you can see from the shore.)
5. The trail is made of loose cinders and covered with ironwood pine needles. It is slippery, and there are several points where a slip could result in catastrophe. That said, the trail is short, so opportunities to tempt fate are very short in duration; those more experienced in hiking may actually find the risky points trivial.

Key Info:
Location: Park at the end of Uakea Rd. which runs on the ocean side of Hotel Hana Maui, parallel to Hana Hwy.
GPS Coordinates: 20.752803,-155.981736
Facilities: Mothership*
Get directions

View Red Sands Beach in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Makena Little Beach

General Geographic Area: South Maui

In a nutshell: South Maui is home to the spectacular world-class beaches of Kihei, Wailea and Makena. Wailea, to the south of this region, boasts exclusive word-class resorts and golf, while Kihei to the north is where you’ll find more down-to-earth hotels & condos.
Minuses: Once off the beach, the Kihei part of South Maui has lots of shops and food, but feels much more like California than Hawaii.
Sound-bite: “How many new beaches should we find today?”

The area called “South Maui” is a coastal strip which is actually geographically on the south-west coast of the island. Starting in North Kihei, South Maui extends as far south as you can drive, La Perouse Bay. The popular tourist destinations of Kihei, Wailea and Makena (in that order) comprise virtually all in this area, and generally speaking, the beaches and lodging become more posh and exclusive the further south you go. Several of the absolute best of Maui’s high-end resorts are concentrated in the Wailea area. There are also six spectacular golf courses in South Maui to choose from.

South Maui has two main thoroughfares: South Kihei Road, and the Pi’ilani Highway (Hwy 31.) South Kihei Road runs right along the scenic shoreline, and at its southern termination connects to the main north-south thoroughfare through Wailea and Makena. The Pi’ilani Highway parallels the coastline about a half-mile up the mountain and is a much faster (though less scenic) route that bypasses most of the shore-town destinations. The Pi’ilani Highway is your best bet if you know where you are going. If you’re just taking your good old time, sightseeing, or generally checking out the lay of the land, South Kihei Road is a better choice.

Ignore maps that connect South Maui with Upcountry Maui. No public roads exist to connect these areas. Many private, gated, nonexistent and/or 4WD roads show on GPS and online maps of Maui (including Google Maps.)

The largest shopping center is called “Pi’ilani Village Shopping Center” and is the only shopping center on the Pi’ilani Highway. Anchored by Safeway and Hilo Hattie’s. Pi’ilani Center also has a gas station, Roy’s, Starbucks, Outback, two banks and a dry cleaner – among many other shops you’ll find useful if staying in South Maui for any period of time.

There are many smaller strip-malls, restaurants and places to shop scattered along the length of South Kihei Road – Pretty much anything you’d expect to find at a typical smaller US beach town is available somewhere along this road.

For more specific information on South Maui, browse the South Maui category.

You may also be interested in:

• Eskimo Candy
• Makena Big Beach (aka Oneloa)
• Ed Robinson’s Diving Adventures

General Geographic Area: West Maui

In a nutshell: West Maui is home to loads of beautiful beaches, and the towns of Lahaina and Ka’anapali. To the north of this region, Ka’anapali and Kapalua boast plenty of higher-end condos and resort hotels, plus four word-class golf courses. Lahaina, the most-visited spot on Maui, is midway around the head and where you’ll find lower and mid-range lodging options.
Minuses: Only one narrow two-lane road in and out makes for the most congested traffic in Maui.
Sound-bite: “Today: Golf lessons, shopping, then some beach time to rest up for party-time tonight in Lahaina!”

West Maui is a large area which has seen the majority of Maui’s hotel and resort development. Ka’anapali Beach Resort is Maui’s largest (and first) master-planned resort, boasting 11 hotels and condos. Lahaina, known as Maui’s old whaling, party and shopping town also boasts loads of history and is home to one of Maui’s two main recreational ports. West Maui has four world-class golf courses, including the world-renowned PGA championship Plantation Course at Kapalua.

West Maui has only one main thoroughfare: the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy 30.) The Honoapiilani Highway runs right along the scenic shoreline, and in some places, right up to the shorebreak. It makes for fantastically unique drive. The highway continues all the way around the scenic West Maui Mountains, finishing up along a precarious cliff-edge drive that emerges back on the other side of Central Maui from where you started.

Being the most densely populated tourist area, and having only one narrow road in and out makes for heavy traffic. When there is an accident, forget about it – the road can be closed off entirely, cutting off access in or out of this side of the island for many hours at a time.

There are many opportunities for shopping and dining and new condos, hotels, time-shares, shopping centers and strip malls continue to spring up year after year.

For more specific information on West Maui, browse the West Maui category.

You may also be interested in:

• Scotch Mist Sailing Charters
• Fish Market Maui
• Kahekili Beach Park

General Geographic Area: Upcountry Maui

In a nutshell: “Upcountry” is a term which describes not only a way of life, but much of the area on the Haleakala side of Maui away from the shoreline. The largest towns Upcountry are Pukalani, Makawao, Kula and Haiku. Although Upcountry is mostly rural, agricultural and residential, Upcountry Maui also offers quite a bit for visitors too.
Minuses: No beaches, and far less tourism oriented.
Sound-bite: “Excuse me ma’am, how do I get back to the down-country?”

“Upcountry” is as much a lifestyle as it is a place. Many people who live Upcountry consider themselves to be quite different from those fancy “city-slickers” who live in paces like Kahului, Wailuku, Kihei or West Maui. Take the “up” off and you have the closest translation of what this term would mean on the mainland: “Country” (with a capital C!) There are Upcountry bumper stickers that proudly proclaim the owner’s mindset, and depending on who you ask, many folks have an opinion on who/what/where is qualified to be considered worthy of that label.

Back to the geography: like all the geographic regions in Maui there are no precisely defined boundaries to Upcountry (more accurately: especially Upcountry!) For example, depending on who you ask, Upcountry can start in, just above, or well above Paia Town. Parts of Paia could be any or all of: “Upcountry”, “Central Maui”, “Road to Hana” and even “North Shore.” One thing is in definite agreement: Upcountry has no water sports

Upcountry Maui has several thoroughfares, but the Haleakala Highway (Hwy 37), Maui’s biggest highway, will be the entry route into Upcountry Maui for most. Other primary roads are Baldwin Avenue (Hwy 390) which heads from Paia up to Makawao; Makawao Avenue (west Hwy 365), which connects Makawao to the Haleakala Highway; Kaupakalua Road (east Hwy 365) connects Makawao to Haiku and the start of twisty “Road to Hana” section of Hana Highway (mile marker 0 of Hwy 360.)

Upcountry it is especially important to take GPS and online maps (including Google Maps) with a grain of salt. Be aware that there are many private, gated, nonexistent, cane and/or 4WD roads that show on GPS as public roads. Ignore maps that connect Upcountry to South Maui. No public roads exist to connect these areas.

For more specific information on Upcountry Maui, browse the Upcountry Maui category.

You may also be interested in:

• Haleakala Crater (Haleakala National Park Summit Area)
• Pi’iholo Ranch Zipline
• Pony Express Tours

General Geographic Area: Central Maui

In a nutshell: Central Maui is the isthmus between West Maui and Haleakala. It is also where most business gets done on Maui. Visitors will pass through here several times, usually on the way to somewhere else.
Minuses: The Pu’unene Sugar Mill spewing smoke from its stacks into the blue sky sure is a buzzkill.
Sound-bite: “OMG, OGG!”

Central Maui is where Maui’s business gets done. The Kahului Airport and Harbor are where all our “stuff” (and people) come in. The Maui County government, Costco, WalMart, two protected wetlands and ‘Iao Valley…just to name a few of the many reasons you might end up in Central Maui on purpose. Like most of the island, there are also several absolutely spectacular beaches here – including the beach where kitesurfing was born.

Central Maui is comprised largely of the isthmus between West Maui and Haleakala. Kahului and Wailuku are the largest towns in this area. Most visitors will fly in to the Kahului airport.

While it is largely not a tourist destination in and of itself, Central Maui is a hub virtually every visitor will (and must) pass through several times. Traveling from either of the resort areas (West and South Maui) to any other region of Maui requires passing through Central Maui.

Central Maui has several main highways crossing through it, many of which you’re bound to find yourself on. Practically every visitor will take Airport Road, which turns into Dairy Road (Hwy 380) to the junction of 380 & 311. If you are staying in West Maui, you’ll continue on 380 (which becomes the Kuihelani Highway here) to the other side of the central valley. South Maui visitors will take the Mokulele Highway (Hwy 311) from the junction. If you happen to be one of the few lucky folks staying in on the North Shore, Upcountry or Road to Hana regions, you’ll be exiting Central Maui sooner, and by hanging a left onto Hana Highway (Hwy 36) at the K-Mart on Dairy Road.

Ma’alaia Harbor, the Maui Ocean Center and ‘Iao Valley are among the main tourist attractions in Central Maui – but many visitors will find themselves shopping at one of the big box stores, supermarkets or Central Maui’s only two-story shopping mall, the Ka’ahumanu Center. (Don’t be tempted to avoid trying to pronounce Ka’ahumanu by calling it the “Maui Mall” – especially if you’re asking for directions – there is a shopping center/strip mall just a bit down the same road with that very name.)

For more specific information on Central Maui, browse the Central Maui category.

You may also be interested in:

• 'Iao Valley State Park
• Spreckelsville Beach
• Kahului Airport (OGG)

General Geographic Area: Road to Hana Maui

In a nutshell: The Road to Hana is the crown-jewel of Hawaii driving tours. Lush rainforest, dramatic and rugged ocean vistas, countless waterfalls and pools.
Minuses: If you get car-sick, there are going to be 600 opportunities to review your breakfast.
Sound-bite: “600 turns?!? More like one 50-mile-long turn…”

Just exactly where “The Road to Hana” begins and where it ends is subject to some debate. For my guide purposes, I usually start in the North Shore (Paia area) and end at what we call Haleakala’s Back Side (a bit past Hana.)

Driving to Hana is not a commute, or even the means to an end – the drive is an adventure in and of itself. “The adventure is in the journey” may be cliché, but it is also said that every cliché harbors a kernel of truth – there is much more than just the kernel in this one. In fact, no matter how many times I have driven this road, (including the few times I was silly enough to take it for granted), the adventure is just as magical, engaging, and never the same twice. The raw natural beauty is dynamic, containing countless hidden treasures and always just every bit as spectacular no matter how many times I drive it. The Road to Hana is, in my opinion, the most spectacular and beautiful road in the world.

As the name suggests, the thoroughfare in this section of the guide is made up by just one road: Hana Highway (Hwy 36 & 360). But don’t let the name “highway” fool you – The majority of time you’ll be spending on the Hana Highway is a narrow, twisting, sometimes one-lane road (forget about a shoulder) with an estimated 600 turns and 54 mostly one-lane bridges. For those of you that enjoy a challenging drive, this could be your absolute favorite anywhere. A Mustang convertible, the quintessential Maui rental car, is probably the best car for the driving enthusiast, and convertibles and Jeeps with the top off will be rewarded with stunning unobstructed views. (But don’t get too smug looking at the poor sap in the Ford Taurus – because he’ll likely get payback when you’re reminded that this is the rainforest and that the next place to pull over ain’t soon enough.)

For those that see driving as the way to get from A to B, and especially if you’re an overly timid (or just plan bad) driver, you still should not skip the opportunity to see this jewel of Hawaii – there are some fantastic van tours that can add a dimension to the journey you could never have on your own.

There is only one gas station past Paia on this road, and that is in Hana Town. The price of gas there will make you feel like you were getting a great deal everywhere else (which, until you’ve gassed up in Hana, will be hard to believe!) There is little shopping of significance beyond some roadside fruit stands and the jungle version of a strip-mall in the middle of nowhere (a strip of ramshackle fruit stands, BBQ, fish taco, art, and whatever pops up.) And even in Hana, lets just say your choices are very limited. Best to bring along everything you will need for the whole day, aside from fruit and banana bread – those items are abundant, and usually very yummy!

For more specific information on the Road to Hana, browse the Road to Hana category.
I also have a Road to Hana article in the works. Stay tuned

You may also be interested in:

• Seven Sacred Pools aka 'Ohe'o Gulch
• Valley Isle Excursions
• Twin Falls

Standing at the Haleakala summit is like standing on Mars.

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Haleakala Crater is the most popular attraction in Upcountry Maui. Stunning sunrises, panoramic out-of-this-world landscapes, birds-eye views of the Maui central valley, and flora and fauna that exist nowhere else in the world.
Minuses: The air is thin, and hiking here is not for the less fit.
Sound-bite: “Oh my Lord, it is cold up here!”

DETAILS:
Haleakala National Park covers the summit area of the larger of the two volcanic mountains that make up Maui. The National Park’s boundary has fingers that extend down the Hana side of the mountain, all the way to the ocean. (The entire park includes the Kipahulu area, where Ohe’o Gulch (Seven Pools) and Pipiwai Trail are found – this article includes only the Summit Area.)

Geologically Speaking
Speaking of “crater” this is a good time to explain that the summit area is actually not a typical crater formed by volcanic activity (such as you would see on the Big Island of Hawai’i.) Haleakala Crater is so gigantic because it was formed over eons as the result of erosion of the entire volcanic mountain top. Over this period of time, smaller lava flows back-filled the eroding valley, building up the floor of what is commonly called the Haleakala Crater. The cinder cones that dot the landscape here are the last of these most recent eruptions (and these individually have true volcanic craters.)

Like the oft misunderstood prune, there has been an effort to re-brand the Haleakala Crater area something more technically accurate (dried lava-mountain?), but I think the Maui Guidebook will just call it a capital-C “Crater” (as in place name) rather than the longer-winded (and far-less recognized) “Haleakala National Park Summit Area.”

Oh, and that dried lava-mountain you’re looking at isn’t actually done erupting yet. Haleakala is dormant, and (geologically speaking) it has erupted fairly recently. You’ll hear most guidebooks quote the more “hey that’s not that long ago” date of 1790, but that date is largely based upon deductions made from a notoriously bad map maker’s map not matching the coastal lines on an accurate map. When subjected to carbon dating, the rocks from that lava flow date to the 1600’s. (I don’t know about you, but my money is on the science nerds.) Haleakala is also expected to erupt several more times in the future. Since geological time is measured in the millions of years, our time on Haleakala (and Earth) is short enough that you can feel secure leaving the heat-reflective lava suit back home in the family fallout shelter.

That dot in the corner is a couple emerging from the Crater on Sliding Sands Trail

Stuff to Remember When You Visit
Remember to bring your sunscreen, plenty of water, and something else you may have left back home: layers of warm clothing. Overnight (yeah, before sunrise) temperatures can dip below freezing. Even during the day temperatures can be cold enough for a sweatshirt, or even a jacket – especially if you’re not getting any blood moving waiting for the yellow disc to rise above the horizon. Once the sun does rise, there is less atmosphere to scatter and absorb UV rays, so the sun’s skin-burning potential is actually stronger at these higher elevations than it is at the beach.

Oh, and while we’re on the subject of the beach and ocean – if you’re a SCUBA diver, the reduced pressure at the altitude of Haleakala is well below that of a pressurized aircraft. So be sure to observe the same degassing time rules you would prior to flying.

Also important to remember, if you go for a hike into the Crater, the hike in is deceptively easy. The hike out is another story. The thin air and elements (sun, wind, occasionally rain) means you’ll likely take twice as much time (and way more than twice the effort) to get out than you spent hiking in.

Sunrises
Sunrise is the most popular time here. Mark Twain called it “the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed.” Words can not do this event justice, it is a feeling to be experienced. Conditions are typically conducive to spectacular sunrises – but that doesn’t mean they’re guaranteed. Arriving here for sunrise means getting up very early. I usually suggest to friends visiting to go on their first or second morning (while their body is still on an earlier time-zone.)

Sunrise Scheduling 101
1. You want to get to the summit 20-30 minutes before the sunrise time in the table below.
2. Leave yourself an extra 15-30 minutes (depending on how far you’re driving) for slow-pokes and paying the entrance fee.
3. If you’re driving during peak traffic times (typically during daylight hours, and especially from West Maui) drive times can take longer.

(Sunrise/Sunset times are from the NPS and have been properly time adjusted for the summit.)

When the Sun Sets
A strong “second-best” next to the sunrises, sunsets are still absolutely spectacular up here. If you just find that you just can’t rationalize waking up before the crack of dawn on your vacation, hanging out for the sunset might just suffice.

Barring special closures, the park is open 24-hours a day, so you can come up here and leave any time you want.

Since there is less atmosphere up here, combined with being above turbulent atmospheric conditions, and virtually zero light pollution, the summit area of Haleakala also ranks among the very best sites in the world for viewing the night sky. Astronomers can expect to see objects up to 7th magnitude. If you don’t know what that means, magnitude is a measurement of brightness. The higher the number, the dimmer the object. Remember the bag of tools the space station astronaut accidentally let go of last year? That bag of tools shines in the night sky at 7th magnitude. It is so dark up here that if you know where to look, you can literally see a backpack sized bag of tools from Haleakala as it orbits Earth 174 miles above!

Silversword in bloom
(Photo: Forest and Kim Starr)

Flora & Fauna
Haleakala National Park has more endangered species than any other National Park in the country (including species which are not native.) The park is chock-full of facts about all the plants and creatures unique to Haleakala. If you like learning about wildlife, take the time to stop in the visitor’s center, and also to read the many educational and informational signs that the NPS has posted around the parking areas and trailheads. (You may also want to stop in the visitor’s center even if you’re just here for the views – they have one of top drive-up Crater views.)

One of the plants which is native to only Haleakala is the Ahinahina, or Haleakala Silversword. Living only at the summit of Haleakala, the Silversword has developed some interesting adaptations for survival. One of the lesser-known adaptations is that the leaves of the Silversword form at an angle so that the older leaves focus the warming energy of the sun on to the youngest leaves. Threatened by near extinction in the 20th century, the Silversword is now considered a triumph of conservation efforts. This plant lives between 15 and 50 years, blooming only once before dying. When a Silversword goes into bloom, it puts out an impressive stalk of flowers that can be as tall as a person. The stalk contains hundreds of what look like tiny purple, wine red, or sometimes yellow sunflowers radiating in all directions. If you are hiking here in the summer, you will likely see several Silverswords in full bloom.

Car strikes are a top threat to Nene in the park.

The Nene is another Haleakala conservation success, although these creatures are still precariously endangered. Years of hunting by introduced species (and people), the Nene became virtually extinct. With only 30 individuals remaining, in the 1960’s & 70’s a captive breeding program In England bred and then reintroduced the birds to Haleakala Park. Today a stable population of about 250 wild individuals populates the park, and some have even been sighted (including by yours truly) at much lower elevations.

Many guidebooks mistakenly call the summit of Haleakala the Nene’s native habitat. However, the summit area is not where these birds were once primarily found, but was chosen as a protective area to reestablish the species. A relative of the Canadian Goose, the zebra-striped birds were actually once common at much lower elevations. Since the Nene evolved with no natural predators, they also lay their eggs right on the ground which makes them easy-pickens for rats, mongoose, cats and dogs.

Weather
The Park Service used to offer dial-up forecasts, the phone numbers for which are still widely printed as fact in many guidebooks. Don’t bother calling these numbers, they are no more.

The NOAA offers forecasts – but keep in mind weather can change rapidly in this environment. The NOAA website will give you as accurate a forecast as you are gonna get.

Downhill Bikers starting at Haleakala Summit

Horseback Riding
This is the only other method besides your legs that you can use to get into the Crater. Pony Express Tours offers an outstanding ride that is worth every penny.

Downhill Bike Tours
The Haleakala Summit is also a popular place for launching downhill bike tours. Until 2007, tour companies brought visitors to the summit for sunrise, and then launched their multi-hour downhill tour right from the parking lots. However, a string of accidents, including a fatality, caused the National Park Service to ban commercial launching of bikes within the park boundaries. They call it a “stand-down” as it is intended to be a period where the NPS can re-assess their position – however, it has been extended, and does not look likely that the activity can guarantee the level of safety the park service feels appropriate. You can still rent bikes from these companies and launch yourself – however this is (ironically) more dangerous than being part of a group as you don’t have a protective buffer of a tour van blocking aggressive drivers from passing in unsafe areas. Alternatively, the tour operators do launch from just outside the boundary of the park, but this cuts out a significant portion of the ride. Speaking as someone who once lived on Crater Rd and observed many sketchy situations where lives were endangered, I would advise strongly that anyone interested in this activity become educated as to the risks, and how to minimize them.

Camping & Cabins
For hikers there are three cabins and two campgrounds inside the Crater. None have electricity or potable water. All are miles from your car, and can be strenuous hikes. For non-hikers, there is also a drive-up campground outside the Crater at Hosmer’s Grove.

You may have read elsewhere that you “literally must win a lottery to rent the cabins.” This is a bit of sensationalized exaggeration combined with outdated information. Cabin reservations, and current booking schedule, are now handled online at https://fhnp.org/wcr/ – this is great news for the chronically unlucky: the only luck involved is that no one has beat you to your dates. Operated by the NPS, each cabin can accommodate up to 12 hikers and rent is a steal at $60-75 per night.

Horse and Mule Rides
There are guided horse and mule rides into the Crater for experienced riders who don’t want to hike in. These are with private companies, and must be set up with them before visiting. One company that comes highly recommended is Pony Express Tours.

Waikamoi Preserve
Just inside park entrance alongside Hosmer Grove is the Waikamoi Preserve. This place is spectacular. I intend to do a full-page writeup in the future. The Nature Conservancy manages this fenced-off protected habitat of native cloud forest, and it is off-limits except to those on special hikes led by naturalists. Call 808-572-4459 to find out how you can join a group to glimpse of pre-Western-contact Hawai’i that very few will ever see.

More Info at the Park
There are programs ranging from 15-minute talks to half-day naturalist guided hikes offered most days of the week. You can just stop in the Visitor Center or call – the park phone number is 808-572-4400.

The National Park Service has some nice general summaries of the park on their website. Unfortunately they have not yet entered the 21st century, and don’t provide access to the majority of the wealth of detailed information they have about Haleakala there. The silver lining is that lots of this info is available in the Visitor’s Center, from both highly knowledgeable park staff, displays, and informational literature.

Key Info:
Location:
GPS Coordinates: 20.712245,-156.249962
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Visitor’s Center, Camping (both tent and cabin), grills (Hosmer), picnic tables (Hosmer) and toilets. (No potable water.)
Fee: $10 – NPS Info: http://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/summit-area.htm
Get directions

Download a PDF trail map from the NPS.
View this NPS map of Haleakala National Park on the NPS site.

View Haleakala National Park (Summit) in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Pony Express Tours
• Keokea through Ulupalakua
• Maui Sunriders Bike Co.

Alongside other sailing boats that rarely raise sail, Scotch Mist II not only sails, but
really sails!

Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Fun, fast and quiet – with a crew that is in love with Maui and sailing – and in love with sharing them both with our visitors.
Minuses: I’m coming up empty on a minus here…
Sound-bite: “It is a beautiful night, would anyone mind if we take our time and head back late?”

If you have never been sailing, you’re in for a treat. From the boat (a meticulously maintained, super-fast Santa Cruz 50 sailing yacht) to the crew (in love with sailing, Maui, and sharing both with visitors) Scotch Mist is the kind of top notch operation that makes my job of sending visitors to the best of the best easy – in a field of competitors that run the gamut, Scotch Mist has something going that I so very rarely experience from anyone I research and review: I don’t think a single person I’ve ever spoken to about them has done anything but rave fanatically about their experience.

Here is the deal, and why they have this category sewn-up tight as #1: Scotch Mist is intimate – their charters are limited to 25 max – and frequently can have half that many. It is also run by folks that absolutely love to sail, and are passionate about sharing their loves of sailing and Maui with visitors. You just can’t fake that level of passion when you do this every day. When you get on this boat it is as clear as the views of the West Maui Mountains: you’re sailing with friends, and not some folks punching the clock to put dinner on the table or beer in the fridge. Oh, and speaking of sailing – you might think it goes without saying, but they actually do sail their boat – not run on engines (believe it or not, many of the commercial sailboats here will raise the sail for show in between a mostly engine-run tour.) Now, to appreciate what this really means, you’re going to need to actually sail! The first thing you will notice is how quiet and peaceful it is out on the ocean. No engines droning in the background – and this brings you closer to the ocean, and the people you’re sharing this experience with. (It also brings the creatures in the ocean, like whales and dolphins closer.)

I highly recommend these folks to anyone who truly appreciates sailing (or anyone who wants to.)

Key Info:
Location: Slip #2, Lahaina Harbor
Phone: 808-661-0386
Rating source: Maui Guidebook & Google
Web: http://www.scotchmistsailingcharters.com
Price: $50 – $90

You may also be interested in:

• Lahaina Town
• West Maui – Quick Summary
• Fish Market Maui