Baby Beach (North Shore)

Rating: 4.6 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: A dramatically beautiful beach, not just for kids. Protected lagoon for swimming.
Minuses: Can get very windy in the afternoons.
Sound-bite: “E hau`oli e nâ `ôpio o Hawai`i nei.”

Note: There is also a beach called “Baby Beach” in Lahaina.

DETAILS:
Baby Beach is a beautiful beach and protected lagoon just before Paia on the North Shore of Maui. An exposed stretch of reef, connected to a rocky red-dirt point on the west end of the beach creates a calm lagoon protected from the ocean. This lagoon is perfect for young keiki and parents. It is also a great place to swim laps, explore, or just and hang out on the beach soaking in the scenery.

Backing the beach are large sand dunes and a wooded area, forming a buffer between the beach, some beach homes and the Maui Country Club. This area is a favorite for kids (and adults) to explore. There are also impressive views all the way down the coastline.

Baby Beach is at the Western end of a one-mile long stretch of uninterrupted beach which includes Baldwin Beach Park and Baldwin Cove. Since the larger beach is long it is popular with runners, walkers and dog owners. (Runners: It is possible to continue on past the cove, a well-worn trail runs along a sea-wall, past a clothing-optional beach and further on to Paia Bay. This extends the end-to-end distance to just over 1.5 miles each way.)

If the tradewinds are blowing strong, a pleasant afternoon at Baby Beach can shift into an irritating sandblasting. Escape into the water, or head to the other end of Baldwin Beach (Baldwin Cove) which is sheltered from the wind.

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #5 (Hwy 36 aka Hana Hwy)
GPS Coordinates: 20.912665,-156.402724
Facilities: There are no lifeguards, showers or facilities at this end, however Baldwin Beach Park has full facilities.
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You may also be interested in:

• Spreckelsville Beach
• Baldwin Beach Park
• Kuau Cove – (Beach at Mama’s Fish House)

A tall blast at high tide.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Blowhole and scenic rugged coastline hike.
Minuses: If you’re not sure-footed parts of the trail can be challenging.
Sound-bite: [hssssst....BLAST!]

If you’re looking at the map below, first thing you’ll notice are two parking areas with trails to the blowhole. If you’re less mobile or traveling with little ones, the closer area at the 38.5mm would probably be your best choice. This area is also overlooking the blowhole so those who prefer can view it from a distance without having to hike.

I’m going to describe Nakalele Point as it unfolds on a 1.25 mile hike (round-trip) from the other parking area (38mm.) As long as you’re able to hike though somewhat rough terrain, taking this route is actually better for seeing all the places listed below.

Dirt Bike/ATV Trails
Between the 38mm parking area and the light beacon is a maze of dirt bike and ATV trails. These trails were laid without a destination in mind, so just pick any trail that suits your mood and meander out toward the light beacon.

Light Beacon & Tidepools
GPS Coordinates: 21.028951,-156.590506
Light-what? Think of it as a lighthouse, only smaller and stripped of all charm and artistic value. (I can just see that slogan now on the travel brochures!) But what this beacon lacks in ambiance it makes up for in views. Stand on the concrete slab adjacent and you’ll also get a good view of the tidepools below. What you’ll also see is an old rickety ladder, precariously positioned on the cliff-edge, beckoning with the promise to deliver adventure. (At least that’s the way it looks to me…) As tempting as it may look, going down to this tidepool area (let alone on an old precariously positioned rickety ladder of questionable functionality), well…lets just say it is certainly not advisable.

As you continue on, the trail goes downhill for a short bit, and this is the likely going to be the strongest test of your sure-footedness. If you’re with a group (and especially kids who can’t resist the temptation to release kenetic energy) being at the back of the line here is key strategy for remaining upright throughout your descent. Once at the bottom you’ll begin to get some previews of the “Acid War Zone” and some more dramatic views of ocean and coast, along with another very nice tidepool, this one fed in part by a small blowhole of its own. (Don’t confuse this with the main attraction!)

Acid War Zone
GPS Coordinates: 21.027820,-156.589235
The fantastic name of “Acid War Zone” has been coined for an area between the light beacon and the Nakalele Blowhole. It is a sight that is definitely impressive and worth checking out when you find yourself out here for the blowhole. As the name aptly describes, it is a barren landscape where boulders have been severely pock-marked, sculpted, perched precariously, and otherwise dramatically eroded by countless years of salt water spray.

A woman conjures the spirit of the blowhole.

(38.5 mm) Nakalele Blowhole
GPS Coordinates: 21.027013,-156.588559
The prime attraction of the Nakalele Point is, of course, the blowhole. A blowhole’s effect is much like that of a geyser: a hole in the ground with a jet of water shooting periodically into the air. (See sidebar for technical description & safety.) This blowhole is large enough to accommodate a manhole cover and is powerful enough to easily blast it high in the air – especially during high surf and tides. (tide forecast) Some jets can approach 50+ feet and if you’re close enough you can feel the ground tremble beneath your feet as water is blasted skywards. Now, I know no one likes safety lectures – but I have never once been here without seeing several people do incredibly stupid things. I figure it is because they don’t know the safety info in the sidebar and/or figure some governmental authority is looking out for their safety (just for the record, they’re not.)

More Photos Here

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #38-38.5 (Kahekili Hwy aka Hwy 340)
GPS Coordinates: (light beacon): 21.028951,-156.590506
Facilities: None.
Get directions

View West Maui’s North Shore Sights in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• West Maui’s North Shore – Kapalua to Wailuku
• Back Side of West Maui – Honoapiilani Hwy (30) Closed
• Olivine Pools

The Mecca of windsurfing: Ho'okipa

Rating: 3.8 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Ho’okipa Beach is a world-renowned windsurfing spot with often dramatic and impressive surf.
Minuses: Marginal for swimming.
Sound-bite: “Epic day bro!”

Ho’okipa is Mecca to the windsurfing world, and is also a top-notch board surfing destination. There are professional windsurfing competitions held here, and on just about any day with wind (which are most days) you can watch pros doing absolutely amazing things with sailboards. Ho’okipa provides visitors a stunning backdrop where you can watch the best effortlessly play with the ocean in a way that mere mortals can only dream of.

During the winter months under the right conditions (when the surf is up and the wind is strong), huge waves form with their whitecaps blowing off trailing like a thousand tiny white ribbons. Combine that scene with the monster surf pounding against the Ho’okipa Lookout’s rocky outcropping – the spray scattering like a gigantic water-balloons relentlessly exploding upon impact – and you’ll be left without doubt that you’ve just witnessed one of nature’s epic scenes of natural beauty.

A nice place for the kiddies to play

Now, if you’re considering getting in to surf or sail here (and you haven’t figured this out already), you’d better be really good (or come on a small ankle-buster day in the summer – like in the current summer photos I need to update this winter…) Even on average surf days, strong winds, currents and shallow reef typically ravage optimistic novices.

Ho’okipa Lookout
For watching the surfers and the surf, Ho’okipa Lookout is the place to be. The lookout is on the edge of a cliff overlooking “Pavilions” – the popular surfing-end of the beach. Conditions permitting, more adventurous folks walk down toward the tip of the rocky outcropping, closer to the action (and closer to unforgiving pounding surf!) The lookout also has its own large parking lot, which is where you want to come out if you’re continuing on toward Hana. (Beyond the lookout is one-way and does not permit Hana-bound traffic at the only exit.)

Rare sight: No waves at Ho'okipa!

The Beach
The good news is that you don’t have to be an expert to enjoy the beach. The beach itself is long and narrow, white sand, with plenty of open space to lay out a blanket and lounge.

An exposed reef runs along most of the shorebreak, and frequently loads of green sea turtles can be seen just on the other side bobbing in the water. The best angles to see the turtles are standing on top of the exposed reef (shorebreak & tide permitting), or standing at the edge of the lower parking area before it drops down a few feet to the beach.

There are also tidepools and protected wading pools for the keiki, and on the Pavilions side there are small areas of sandy-bottom ocean with safe sheltered swimming. At the opposite end, the lower parking lot area has drive-up-to-the-beach parking and is a great place for a quick and convenient in-and-out to the beach and tide pools. (This is also the end where you will enter the ocean if you’re windsurfing.) Technically you could swim in the sandy area in front of the H’poko lifeguard tower – but most of the time it is just a bit too rough in this spot to really enjoy (especially with boards continually coming in and out around you.)

There are lifeguard towers at both ends of the park, and these primarily serve windsurfers and surfers who find themselves in over their heads, as swimmers rarely venture beyond the shallow edge.

The Picnic Pavilions
The pavilion area is closer to the lookout end; elevated from the beach. Even for a picnic, this is an area I suggest visitors skip in favor of the more welcoming sandy beach, not only because the beach is preferable, but also because it can often have a few in attendance that don’t know the meaning of ho'okipa.

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #8.8 (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 36)
GPS Coordinates: 20.935328,-156.355577
Facilities: Lifeguards, showers, pavilion, picnic tables, bathrooms & port-a-potties.
Get directions

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You may also be interested in:

• Spreckelsville Beach
• Tavares Beach (aka Lamalani aka Blue Tile House Beach)
• Kuau Cove – (Beach at Mama’s Fish House)

Koki Beach with 'Alau Island in background.

Rating: 3.8 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Scenic beach park with much cultural significance. Sand and ocean conditions vary greatly depending on season.
Minuses: Currents become dangerously strong and the beach deteriorates for many months of the year.
Sound-bite: “Is that Oprah?”

Koki Beach changes radically throughout the year. In the summer months, a wide sandy beach is deposited, and surf and currents often mellow out to allow safe water use. In the winter, much of the sand is taken away by the ocean, leaving a mix of sand, cinder and boulders to accompany dangerous ocean conditions.

Cultural significance surrounds Koki Beach on all sides. To the north is Ka Iwi o Pele (literally “the bones of Pele”), which is a large red cinder hill where Hawaiian Mythology tells the the bones of Pele were left after a fatal battle with her older sister. (In more recent times, this hill now belongs to Oprah, as part of a 105 acre parcel that she bought from Hana Ranch in 2002.)

Look toward the ocean from Ka Iwi o Pele, and you’ll see the Leho’ula sea arch. The island visible across from the the south end of Koki Beach is ‘Alau Island – with its cap of coconut trees, it is a favorite place for 'iwa to flock. It is said that this island was once used by Hawaiians as a place of sacred study.

An endangered Hawaiian monk seal plays with her pup at the foot of Ka Iwi o Pele

Just south of the beach are two Hawaiian fishponds that date back to pre-contact. The larger pond is called Haneo’o and the smaller Kuamaka, both of which are privately owned and maintained by members of the Hana community. (More detail on the Haneo’o Fishpond.)

Between the fishponds and Hamoa Beach are beautiful tidepools – stay away form the tidepols when the ocean is not calm.

Key Info:
Location: Haneo’o Rd (Loop road; access @ Hana Hwy mm 50.1 & 49.1)
GPS Coordinates: 20.728622,-155.985281
Facilities: None.
Get directions

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You may also be interested in:

• Hamoa Beach
• Haneo’o Fishpond
• Keawakapu Beach

Keawakapu Beach

Rating: 3.75 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Long sandy beach at the end of S. Kihei Rd.
Minuses: On very windy days can get sandblasting in the afternoons.
Sound-bite: “Beware the forbidden cove!”

Summary:
Half-mile long sandy beach, runs to the end of Kihei, where the road departs from the shoreline. Good for swimming, laying out, boogie boarding, snorkeling or just lazing in the sun.

Details:
The shoreline is fully developed here, including impressive beach houses, hotels, condos and restaurants. Much of the development has been kept a tasteful distance from the beach – keeping the majority of development distinctly separate; the beach refreshingly non-commercialized.

One translation of the name is “forbidden cove.” Hawaiian place names often reveal multiple threads of meaning – one reason this cove might have been kapu may have been to prevent Hawaiians from settling on this section of shoreline; large kona storms can hit here particularly hard. In fact, this normally idyllic section of shoreline is increasingly exposed and becomes unprotected when a series of storms hit, with the majority of sand vanishing into the ocean and anything too close to the margins of the beach can be destroyed. (Fortunately , over the months that follow the ocean politely returns the borrowed sand as good as new.)

Over the years there have been many attempts to tame nature and protect development; the sea wall along the southern half of the beach is one of them.

No rain is falling from a heavy sky.

On the north end there are exceptionally alive tidepools (check them out at night – during a full moon if you have the chance) and good snorkeling around the outcropping. The southern end of this beach also has a small pocket of good snorkeling. Swimming is good and serious swimmers will enjoy doing laps along the entire length of the beach.

An interesting fact is that approximately 400 yards offshore there is an artificial reef made up of 150 car bodies that were dumped here from a barge in 1962. If anyone has an antique car buff/scuba diver in the party, I’d love to see photos of what remains!

Key Info:
Location: End of South Kihei Rd, (From Hwy 31 aka Piilani Hwy, turn off between mi 9.6 & 10.4 )
GPS Coordinates: 20.699399,-156.445934
Facilities: Showers, port-a-potty, no lifeguards, hotel, restaurant, convenience store.
Get directions

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You may also be interested in:

• Polo Beach
• Wailea Beach
• Beaches: Ma’alaea to Central Kihei

Olivine Pools later in the day

Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: The Olivine Pools are several tidepools located on barren lava along the ocean’s edge on the back-side of West Maui.
Minuses: Terrain on the short hike is unforgiving to those who are not sure-footed.
Sound-bite: “Olivine?”

DETAILS:
Olivine pools is located on a stretch of remote area that has no sandy beaches or easy water access. Take a steady stream of rental cars passing through, along with ample parking, and this site became much more of an attraction of wide-appeal than it probably should be in its own right.

“Olivine Pools” was first popularized for the masses (and the name coined) about a decade ago by the mass-market guidebook “Maui Revealed.” Eco adventure hiking companies used to bring folks here as part of a special “off-the-beaten-path” hiking experience, but after MR found something that was actually not yet revealed (don’t get me started), they took significant poetic license in their description, gave it an exotic name, and quite literally “put it on the map.” Since the vast majority of tourists fresh off the plane use MR to tell them where to go sightseeing, that means this place would (and did) change overnight.

So, back to reality, what is actually special here is that it is a pretty side-trip to stop and frolic in tidepools in the serenity of the rugged natural West-Maui coastline. Unfortunately, once more than a couple of people show up (which is most of the time) Olivine Pools becomes more reminiscent of a “resort playground” and what can be genuinely so special about this site is quickly lost. If you show up early or late in the day, you might get lucky and have the place with just another couple or two – that said, it likely isn’t a destination worth planning the rest of your day around – that is unless you just flip for tidepools – in which case there are many tidepools (most on the North Shore) that also have the added luxury of sandy beaches, and ocean you can swim in.

There are several well established trails down the jagged lava, but don't trip!

The hike to get here is of moderate difficulty largely due to jagged and in some places fairly steep lava rock. There are several worn trails leading to the pools, making rough “steps” down much of the lava, so it isn’t exceedingly difficult. Those who are active should not have a problem hiking down the lava (unless they trip – this type of lava is like a combo of pumice stone and tiny serrated knives!) Children and older folks might have difficulty depending on how active and adventurous they are used to being.

It should also be noted that unsafe conditions can exist here when surf is up – if waves are crashing into the pools with any force at all, do not enter (no matter what everyone else is doing.) Also important to note is that the lava walls close to where the waves break are unsafe no matter how it looks – since this attraction was made popular, people have been severely injured and even died standing too close to the ocean here – don’t judge safe actions by what others are doing – virtually no one you will see visiting here knows more than you now do.

It is also important to note the parking area is a hot-spot for smash-and-grab thieves – bring valuables with you to the pools, and leave the car unlocked to avoid broken glass.

Key Info:
Location: 16 mile marker of Kahekili Hwy (Hwy 340)
GPS Coordinates: 21.007464,-156.55745
Facilities: None.
Get directions

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You may also be interested in:

• West Maui’s North Shore – Kapalua to Wailuku
• Nakalele Blowhole
• Back Side of West Maui – Honoapiilani Hwy (30) Closed

Kuau Cove at high tide

Rating: 3.25 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Kuau cove is perfect for little ones and anyone that loves to explore tidepool sealife.
Minuses: Fully-clothed Mama’s patrons might make shy folks uncomfortable in their itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-polkadot-bikini.
Sound-bite: “Honey, how much should we tip the valet?”

DETAILS:
A wonderfully scenic small white sand cove beach just past Paia, bordered by a coconut grove and chock full of tidepools.

Kuau Cove, which is commonly also called Mama’s Fish House Beach since most visitors experience this beach as a photo op prior to dining at Mama’s Fish House, which sits just back from this beach. Old-timers may also call it “Father Jules Papa”; Papa is the Hawaiian word for exposed reef, and Father Jules was a prominent figure in the community.

The photo above was taken at high tide from a rocky outcrop that forms the wall of the cove. During the rest of the daily tide cycle, much of the reef becomes exposed forming multiple shallow tidepools teeming with temporarily captive sealife.

Kuau Cove’s sandy beach is perfect for mom and dad to relax while kids play and explore the tidepools. Bring the kids some snorkel gear, too – it is a safe and fun place for little ones to learn how to snorkel.

Parking for Kuau Cove is right a the entry to Mama’s Fish House – although it may appear that the beach is private, the beach does not belong to Mama’s Fish House and is open to all. Blue cones and signs mark spots reserved for beach access. The cones are there to keep Mama’s patrons from using up all the spots, so if you’re there for the beach, you may move them aside to park.

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #8 (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 36)
GPS Coordinates: 20.929476,-156.367593
Facilities: No facilities/no lifeguards
Get directions

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You may also be interested in:

• Spreckelsville Beach
• Ho’okipa Beach Park
• Baby Beach (North Shore)

Windsurfer launching at Euro Beach

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Two mile stretch of rough/raw beaches and tidepools. Frequently used by fishermen and windsurfers.
Minuses: Directly in flight path of Kahului Airport. Attracts some “iffy-characters.”
Sound-bite: [Roar of jet engines]

DETAILS:
Actually more than one beach, “Spreckelsville Beach” is the historic name for a two mile stretch of beaches from Baby Beach in Spreckelsville to Kanaha Beach in Kahului. Most of these beaches have been left to the windsurfers, fishermen, and Maui’s well-hidden homeless population. With recent development in the area, including a new access road to Camp One, more people are starting to find their way here.

The names of the individual beaches that make up Spreckelsville Beach, in order from west to east (see map below) are: Camp One, Sprecks Beach (aka Euro Beach), Lobster Cove, Sugar Cove and Baby Beach.

At the east end, Sugar Cove and Baby Beach are separated by shoreline features and access roads, and these days each is typically considered distinct from catch-all “Spreckelsville Beach.” I’ve written about each of them in their own article. (Sugar Cove is still in development.)

Camp One, at the other end of Spreckelsville Beach, is named for an old plantation camp razed to make way for the airport, and is literally at the end of the Kahului Airport’s main runway. Planes suddenly tear into the peaceful ambiance, barely overhead with their roaring jet engines. If you’re an airplane buff, you might really enjoy the unusual proximity – in fact, you’re so close to the planes here that the FAA has determined that kitesurfing actually has the potential to pose a danger to the airplanes, and is prohibited here. (Good info for kiteboarders considering where it is safe to launch in this area: Maui Kiteboarding Association website.)

Sprecks Beach is a favorite for European Windsurfers (hence the nickname Euro Beach.)

Sugar Cove often had good boogie boarding in the winter and access is from a few roads down (via Nonohe Place).

Somewhere along Camp One Beach

Recently development has moved into this area, and in order to gain approval the developer made a deal with the County to remove the immediate shoreline area from development. They also agreed to install infrastructure to make these beaches more accessible and the access road to Camp One has just been widened, graded and graveled, making for easy parking access right at the oceanside. Expect this beach to become more visited as development continues. Euro Beach also has a decent sized parking lot at the end of a winding poorly-graded unpaved access road.

Camp One has historically been populated by a small amount of homeless people living in tents – the recent development and resulting increase in people visiting these beaches has pushed the homeless further out of sight, but they are still here – not normally a danger, but be sure to keep your valuables in mind (as you should everywhere.)

Key Info:
Location: Stable Rd. (Off of Hana Hwy 36 between mile 4 & 5)
GPS Coordinates: 20.907729,-156.416345
Facilities: None
Get directions

View Sprecelsville Beach in a larger map

You may also be interested in:

• Baby Beach (North Shore)
• Ho’okipa Beach Park
• Car Rental Hawaii